Dorset is known as a natural larder, from meat to dairy and veg to cakes. Caz Richards of Dorset Food & Drink suggests some seasonal favourites
The Wasabi Company’s take on the classic Limoncello
Unless you’re the most organised person on the planet and have done your Christmas shopping by Hallowe’en – the sudden realisation that we are only a few weeks from Christmas Day can send us into a spin. It’s OK. Relax. We’ve got a holly jolly basket full of local Dorset loveliness that won’t break the bank and if we choose to buy Christmas gifts and groceries from local makers, producers and retailers, we can all make a genuinely big difference to our small businesses and independents. Whether it’s local cheese, funky craft ales, free-from sweet treats, chocolate, wine or something made by talented artisans – there’s plenty to choose from in Dorset, and you can shop small or large depending on your budget. It’s a great way to support your local producers, many of whom have won multiple national awards for their products! Keep it local, and get to know the people who make, bake, brew, cook, sew, grow, craft and create beautiful things.
Don’t forget the extras Our top pick for Christmas condiments takes us to the far east via Dorset! Spice up your festive faves with a contemporary twist from The Wasabi Company – the only grower of fresh wasabi in the UK, with farms in Hampshire and Dorset. Try the Yuzu mustard – delicious with mini roast beef yorkie canapes. For a festive tipple, try the amazing Yuzucello; whole yuzu fruits from Kōchi distilled into The Wasabi Company’s take on the classic Limoncello. Cheers! Warm winter wishes from everyone at Dorset Food & Drink. x
P.S. Don’t forget to use up all your festive leftovers. There are lots of ideas at Love Food Hate Waste!
It’s 35 years since Mike and Louise Burks opened Castle Gardens – now their Christmas displays are a staple of the region’s festive calendar
Mike Burks, managing director of The Gardens Group
Mike Burks is managing director of The Gardens Group, and with his wife Louise has spent the past three decades running three multi-award-winning garden centres, three restaurants and a farm shop in Dorset and Somerset. During the 2020 lockdowns, Mike, as chairman of the Garden Centre Association (GCA), played an essential part in co-ordinating the industry’s emergency response. His biggest success was persuading the government that garden centres should be treated as essential retailers for the health of the nation. Both Mike and Louise graduated with honours degrees in horticulture from the University of Bath. They founded The Gardens Group in 1987, opening Castle Gardens in Sherborne, The group has since expanded with the opening of Brimsmore Gardens in Yeovil in 1992 and Poundbury Gardens near Dorchester in 2006. One of the biggest challenges for modern garden centres, Mike believes, is their stance on environmental issues – peat, plastics, water, pesticides and carbon emissions: ‘Garden centres should be guiding customers to a peat-free world, for example.’ He also believes the wide use of ‘multi-purpose’ compost is a big issue ‘Whether it is woodchip, coir or worse, peat, the ingredients in multipurpose are scarce and should not be wasted on the veg patch. Other, more plentiful, materials are available.’
The Christmas displays at Castle Gardens have an environmentally-aware approach
Those Christmas displays A visit to Castle Gardens at Christmas is a December ritual for many families. Mike and Louise’s garden centres are renowned for their Christmas displays, and they have won the top national award in the GCA’s annual Christmas competition on numerous occasions. The displays now have a purposefully environmentally-conscious focus: they have been built using re-purposed and recycled materials. The decorations and gifts have been deliberately sourced from small-scale makers and fair-trade businesses. Recycled candles, plastic-free toys, soft toys made from recycled plastic and recyclable gift wrap are all available throughout the displays. Decorations made of glass, wax, paper and cardboard have replaced plastic. They are chosen for their quality so that they will be brought out year after year and hopefully be passed down through families.
Cadillac Walk Mink DeVille I come from a big family, and we are all still very close. We had to work hard at home – a small farm in North Devon which turned into an organic market garden – but it was good fun. We didn’t have a television for many years, so the record player was in fairly constant use. My older brothers and sisters especially would bring home records from a wide range of genres from John Denver and Neil Sedaka through to The Stranglers. But Cadillac Walk always reminds me of family times at home.
Reasons to be Cheerful Ian Dury and The Blockheads University was another time in my life when I found a lot of new music, through people from all over the UK – many of whom we’re still in touch with. It’s also where my wife Louise and I met. Ian Dury was a genius, a poet really, but he was also a controversial figure at the time. Louise went to buy his album New Boots and Panties as a Christmas present for me, only to be told loudly by the assistant in a packed record store that they didn’t stock it because it was banned under the Obscene Publications Act!
Lollipop, Lollipop The Chordettes Moving to Sherborne to set up Castle Gardens lead to my involvement with Sherborne Rugby Club, which swiftly dominated life when we weren’t working! We have met a whole load of great people, some of them foolish enough to be persuaded by me to get involved in revues and pantomimes. This was a huge amount of fun and stretched my music collection even further (as fondly remembered by our kids who recall short clips of obscure tracks that I was selecting for these rugby events). From our panto The Wizzer D’ovos, based loosely (and I do mean very loosely) on The Wizard of Oz. I have chosen Lollipop, Lollipop just because it makes me laugh every time I hear it, instantly taking me back to a song-and-dance routine performed by a large sweaty Lion, an even larger and sweatier Toto the dog, a Germanic Tin Man and an unusual Scarecrow. Dorothy and some witches were around too but that is a whole other story…
Sweet Georgia Brown Stephane Grappelli My mum and dad were very fond of music, but especially jazz. I remember going to a concert at the Bournemouth International Centre with them in the late 80s or early 1990s to see Stephane Grappelli. I was amazed that it was a packed house with a huge audience. An elderly man in his 80s shuffled onto stage in slippers – on his own, without any announcement – and just started playing his violin. Just stunning. He was accompanied after a while by two young guitarists who, after an hour, took a break while Stephane played the piano, followed by another hour of violin. So many to choose from but Sweet Georgia Brown is a personal favourite which has other stories attached!
Lake Charles Nellie Lutcher Louise’s parents also loved jazz and we went to see many live shows with them in various places. They were fans of Lianne Carroll, a brilliant British pianist, but they also introduced me to lots of older jazz from the last century. Listening to Nellie Lutcher’s Lake Charles always brings back good memories.
No Longer There The Cat Empire Our children William and Sophie love music and enjoy some of the things that we have played for them over the years, but they also keep us up to date with new, contemporary bands. They are both fans of an Australian band called The Cat Empire and we have been to see them live on a number of occasions. The first time William went to see them was when he was still at the Gryphon school and he asked us one morning if we’d like to go with him and a couple of friends to see The Cat Empire play at the O2 in Bristol that evening. We agreed – but were then told when he got back from school that he had sold our tickets, but could we give him and his mates a lift anyway! Their song No Longer There was one I used at the three-day annual Garden Centre Association conference when I was chairman in January 2020. The song is a lament on climate change and, as the conference was on sustainability and the environment, it was the perfect theme tune. Not their jolliest song by any means but it takes me back immediately.
What You Doing in My Cave? Spencer Jones As a family and with friends we’ve been many times to the Edinburgh Fringe. We’ve come across several superb ones in tiny venues – and some terrible acts too! Many of the former have gone on to be very successful, including Mischief Theatre and The Play That Goes Wrong. Also, though, we have seen some great stand-up comedy. Spencer Jones’ humour is just bizarre, and he also makes up little songs which are ridiculous, especially What you Doing in My Cave. I’m not sure it was even properly published as he used to copy the CDs and wrap them in A4 sheets of handwritten paper!
Jackson Johnny Cash and June Carter In recent times I’ve been given some Sonos speakers and been introduced to Spotify, which has meant that I have been able to resurrect some old favourites as well as find lots of new stuff I wasn’t really aware of before. One great find has been JJ Cale. Of course I recognise the name, but I somehow missed out on some wonderful music. However, linking back to when I lived at home in Devon, I’ve been listening to lots of Johnny Cash and after watching Walk The Line with the extraordinary Joaquin Phoenix I also became aware of June Carter and her amazing voice.
Reg and fortune hunting As to my luxury item I think I would like to take our talking reindeer Reg. He is an essential part of our Christmas display at the garden centres. Reg is, at best, downbeat shall we say, and his dour view of life would cause me to be always cheerful in response. And my book would need to be A Lady’s Guide to Fortune Hunting by Sophie Irwin; our daughter’s first book, it was a Sunday Times best seller.
Self-taught wood-turners Peter Thomas and Trevor Ball tell Tracie Beardsley how they have turned retirement into a new career
Peter Thomas bought a second hand lathe when he retired from farming. Now 84, he has a successful second career. All images: Courtenay Hitchcock
When octogenarian actors Derek Jacobi and Clint Eastwood worked together on the drama Hereafter, Jacobi asked Eastwood how he coped with age. Eastwood famously replied: ‘Don’t let the old man in!’ In a tiny village in Dorset, talented 84-year-old Peter Thomas and 70-year-old Trevor Ball are keeping the old man well and truly out. Former colleagues on Rampisham Manor estate, Peter as farm manager for 15 years and Trevor as gamekeeper and woodsman for 20 years, both are retired and now work happily every day on their “addiction’’ – woodturning and stick dressing.
Peter Thomas in his workshop
Although they never intended to set up a business, both men now have a hugely satisfying second career. In his charming 17th century cottage in Rampisham, Peter has a gallery of their stunning creations. On display are beautiful bowls, begging to be touched, alongside lampstands and ornaments that would take pride of place in any swanky London gallery.
Peter Thomas learned the skill of stick dressing from his grandfather
There are exquisite walking sticks with ornate heads fashioned from ramshorns and sika deer antlers. The art of stick dressing, a carryover from when countrymen made their own shepherds crooks and walking sticks, is practised by Peter, who was taught the skill by his grandfather. He says: ‘The day after I retired from farming, I saw a second hand lathe advertised. I bought it and for the next few weeks, all hell let loose! Eventually I taught myself how to use it properly and began woodturning. ‘I became completely hooked. I had a workshop built in my garden and then bought a top-of-the-range “big boy” lathe with some of my retirement funds.’ Trevor shares Peter’s addiction. His cottage is near Peter’s and he’s converted part of his kitchen into another Living Wood gallery.
Trevor Ball, the second half of Living Wood, is a retired gamekeeper and also a self taught wood turner
Trevor says: ‘I learned a lot by watching Peter wood turning, which is an art in itself. He’s ambidextrous, switching effortlessly from one hand to the other while the lathe is turning at a furious speed. ‘Like Peter, I bought a shed and a lathe. I started by making bowls and became totally hooked. Wood captures you and draws you in. I finished as a gamekeeper on the Friday and on the Saturday I was exhibiting as part of Dorset Arts Week!’
Trevor Ball’s hands at the lathe
We go where the wood takes us This companionable double-act of self-taught heritage craftsmen are now award-winning exhibitors. They display at county shows across the south west, as many as 60 days of fares and events in a year. Both are also leading lights in the Dorset Art and Crafts Association and the Dorset Coppice Group. Peter and Trevor use solely locally-sourced wood for their creations. “In this day and age we are so quick to discard anything that isn’t perfect,” says Peter. ‘We use dead, diseased and storm-damaged wood. When we begin wood-turning, there’s no preconceived ideas about what we’ll make. The natural edge of the wood evolves on the lathe. We go where the wood takes us.’
A small sample of the products made by Trevor and Peter from locally-sourced dead, diseased and storm-damaged wood
Peter, calling himself a Luddite when it comes to technology, has also set up a successful online shop. ‘Just this week, I’ve posted walking sticks to Poland, America, and France’, he tells me. Trevor had one couple from Boston buy 14 pieces of his work to take home. ‘That’s a real compliment as there are a lot of good turners in America where it’s seen as much more of an art form,’ says Trevor.
Peter Thomas demonstrates the raw horn he starts with for his stick dressing, beside the finished product
Wives Sarah and Jenny are happy woodturning widows! Trevor says: ‘You lose track of time, finding yourself lost in the zone. Both our wives are always asking us if we’re coming in for dinner!’ Peter adds: ’Jen would go mad if I was in the house all day. I’m sure I wouldn’t be alive today if I hadn’t started this hobby when I retired. Woodturning gives second life to a tree that has already lived for a few hundred years. We won’t outlast our creations, but making them has certainly given us a similarly new lease of life.’ Follow Peter and Trevor on Instagram as PeterLivingWood, on Facebook as RampishamTurner, or view the online shop on the website peterthomaslivingwood.co.uk.
Trevor Ball (left) and Peter Thomas outside the workshop in Rampisham
Quick fire questions Trevor: A-list dinner party guests? Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy – and Peter (he’d be at the head of the table). Peter: What book are you reading? I’ve got piles of books everywhere! The Wisdom of Trees by Max Adams is top of my pile.
Passed away on 1/12/22 age 77 at her daughter’s home in Oxfordshire.
Her Funeral will take place at 12.30 on 16/12/22 at St Agatha’s Church Brightwell cum Sotwell, OX10 0RU.
All welcome to attend.
No flowers but donations to the Woodland Trust in their place please may be sent c/o Howard Chadwick Funeral Service 33 Benson Lane Crowmarsh OX10 8ED or made online via www.chadwicksfuneralservice.co.uk
North Dorset resident Alice Plunkett is one of the leading horseracing presenters for ITV. She is a former eventer and National Hunt jockey herself – beginning with local point to points which led to her riding in the 1993 Fox Hunters’ Chase at Aintree. She was just 19 and riding Bold King’s Hussar, bred by her grandfather. It was only her fifth ride on a racecourse and she finished fourteenth. Alice went on to ride winners on the flat, over hurdles and fences.
Switching to eventing, she rode at Badminton Horse Trials and represented Great Britain as part of the Under 21s team at the European Three Day Event Championships. Alice is the only woman to have ridden at both Badminton Horse Trials and over the Grand National course at Aintree. Her broadcasting career began when she became a runner on Festival Radio; she moved on to having her own show there, at The Derby and Royal Ascot. Following Royal Ascot she was asked to do a screen test for the Racing Channel, where she continued to present until it closed. Alice was on the main Channel 4 Racing team from 2001 to 2016 and then moved to ITV when they took over racing coverage in 2017 – she soon became one of the lead presenters for National Hunt Racing coverage. Alice has also been the Radio 5 Live equestrian correspondent and has hosted equestrian events for Eurosport, Sky Sports and Horse and Country. She has also presented two series of the equestrian-interest show Horse Tails on Animal Planet. Alice is married to top eventer William Fox-Pitt, and they have four children.
What’s your relationship with Dorset? I’ve lived here for 20 years! I’m a partner in a farm, and involved in a leading equestrian yard just outside Sturminster Newton.
What was the last song you sang out loud in your car? Ed Sheeran’s The Shape of You. Though to be fair, singing is a stretch. Wailing would be better.
The last film you watched? Oh, it was the latest Marvel movie in Dorch with the boys … Black something … (That’ll be Black Adam – Ed) (And actually it’s the DC Universe, not Marvel – Sub Ed). I nearly always get dragged to see them by 15 and 16 year-old boys and nearly always end up thoroughly enjoying myself!
It’s Friday night – you have the house to yourself, and no work is allowed. What are you going to do? I am calling the girls round to drink vodka! Black Cow vodka, obviously.
What is your comfort meal? Roast chicken. With cheesy leeks, roast potatoes, onion gravy and as many different veg as I can squeeze onto the plate. Actually, the Sunday roast at the White Horse in Hinton St Mary is amazing – I’ll happily go there for my roast chicken.
What would you like to tell 15 year-old you? Try to put some structure into your life. And write lists!
The best crisps flavour? Smoky bacon
And the best biscuit for dunking? Digestives!
What book did you read recently that stayed with you? The Body Keeps the Score by Bessel Van der Valk. Just so so good – it’s about trauma, and the effect it has on our adult lives and bodies. It’s a fascinating, insightful read that has stayed with me.
What’s your secret superpower? Relentless positive energy!
Your most annoying trait? I am a liability. I have an infuriating deep-seated belief that everything is possible. Which means I try and do far too much … In my defence I do get loads done, but I also end up dropping a lot of balls in the process.
What in life is frankly a mystery to you? Tidiness …
What shop can you not pass without going in? Ooohhhh … Hambledon Gallery in Blandford. Caroline Nicholls in Sherborne. Gallery One in Sturminster Newton. All three are simply amazing shops – more so when you consider they’re all in such a small, sparsely-populated rural area.
Tell us about one of the best evenings you’ve ever had? It was in Tokyo in 2019. William was asked to ride in the Olympic test event so we took our boys out on an adventure. We then had the most surreal night out in Shibuya city in Tokyo – it was like the movie Lost in Translation!
Chip Shop Chips or Home Baked Cake? CHIPS!
Your top three most-visited websites? Racing Post er… Racing Post… and Racing Post! No, I do also visit At The Races and Sporting Life … Oh, and Amazon. That counts!
Your favourite quote? Winston Churchill: “No hour of life is lost that is spent in the saddle.” Simply because it is so true.
What was the last gift you either gave, or received? I gave a potion-making kit to my niece. Oh, and I gave my son tickets to see comedian Jack Whitehall at the BIC for his 16th birthday. He was VERY excited – I actually got the most positive teenager reaction I’ve ever achieved, there were real words, not grunts!
You have the power to pass one law tomorrow, uncontested. What would you do? Free school meals for ALL children.
We all know that you can be overwhelmed with jobs at Christmas, especially if it’s your turn to host friends and loved ones. There are many lovely products on our supermarket shelves that can help take some of the burden. But if you fancy trying your hand at perhaps just one thing homemade this Christmas, I’m sharing four side dishes that are simple to make and can all be made in advance to help bring that little extra – stress-free – to your Christmas table. Heather x
PS – you can see all of last year’s Christmas baking recipes here, and don’t forget my foolproof Christmas Cake recipe – it reliably gives that delicious deep Christmassy flavour whether you make it two months or two days before Christmas. You can find more of my Christmas recipes here, including my famous mincemeat, the easiest sausage rolls to impress and the super-Christmassy star-topped jammy biscuits.
Roasted Brussels sprouts
‘I’m not sure any Brussels sprout recipe will entirely convince me that they are a delicious vegetable, but this at least makes them edible (to me) – the actual sprout lovers in the house devour this dish!’
Ingredients
Fresh Brussels sprouts
Good quality olive oil
Salt
Balsamic vinegar
Method
Preheat the oven to Gas 6/180º fan. Line a baking tray with baking parchment.
Wash the Brussels sprouts, cut off the bottoms, remove the outer one or two layers of leaves and slice in half from top to bottom.
Place the Brussels sprouts onto the baking tray and generously drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Give the Brussels sprouts a good rub with the olive oil to make sure they are coated but make sure they finish up with their cut sides face down on the tray.
Bake in the oven for 17-25 minutes until they are crispy and golden brown. You can then drizzle them with a little balsamic vinegar.
To spice them up further, you can also add crispy bacon bits or parmesan cheese. You can also sprinkle finely grated parmesan cheese onto the tray while it is baking for an even crispier Brussels sprout.
To make ahead … Roast the Brussels and then once cooled (and before any of the extra flavours), place in an air tight container in the fridge. To refresh, place on a baking tray with a light sprinkle of olive oil and pop in the oven to reheat for five minutes. Then drizzle with extra flavours (like balsamic etc). If you wanted to add Parmesan, roast the Brussel sprouts plain and then when reheating, sprinkle with grated parmesan and cook in the oven until the cheese has melted.
Slow red cabbage
‘In our house, red cabbage isn’t just a pickled side with cold meats. It’s a hot veg dish and a favourite part of the main feast’
Ingredients
1 red cabbage
2 onions
3 Bramley apples
juice of 2 oranges
1/2 tsp of cinnamon
5 tbs dark brown sugar
25ml sherry vinegar
50ml port
2 tbs butter
Method
Shred the red cabbage and onion and place into a slow cooker, or a casserole dish for a slow oven. Peel the apples and grate them into the mixture. Then add in everything else and give it a good stir together.
Leave to cook on low for four to five hours, stirring occasionally.
This serves at least eight people but will also freeze happily for up to three months, so it’s perfect to make in a big batch and then keep some for another meal.
Croissant bread sauce
‘My personal favourite – the croissants really elevate what is basically bread and milk to a decadent and luxurious sauce for your turkey (plus it uses up any stale croissants that you may have lying around from a festive brunch. Win-win!)
Ingredients
500ml milk
3-4 croissants (stale is fine!)
1 white onion, roughly chopped
1/2 tsp thyme
1/4 tsp ground cloves
Salt and pepper
50ml cream
Method
In a saucepan, place the milk, thyme, onion, ground cloves, salt and plenty of black pepper (either whole peppercorns or freshly ground).
Place on a medium heat and bring to the boil. As soon as it begins to boil, remove from the heat and leave for 15 to 30 minutes so that the flavours infuse into the milk.
Strain the milk into a fresh bowl.
In a food processor, blitz the croissants until they are crumbs and stir these into the milk.
You can make this the day before and leave in the fridge at this stage.
To serve, gently reheat the mixture in a saucepan on a low heat. Add some cream to loosen the sauce as it may have thickened as it cooled.
Give it a taste and add some salt if it needs it. You can also add a small squeeze of lemon to ‘brighten’ the taste at this stage.
Homemade cranberry sauce
‘Once you’ve tasted your own, I promise you’ll never go back to the jarred stuff. It’s ridiculously easy, and tastes SO good!’
Ingredients
100g brown sugar
Juice of roughly three oranges, you need 100ml
400g cranberries (fresh or frozen)
Pinch of salt
Glug of sherry
Method
Put all the ingredients into a saucepan and stir together. You can also add the zest of the oranges if you wish. Turn onto a high heat and leave to come to a boil, stirring occasionally to melt the sugar into the rest of the ingredients.
Allow the sauce to boil, enough to reduce slightly. The cranberries will begin to lose their shape and soften (after about 7-8 minutes if using frozen berries, less if fresh).
Take off the heat and leave to cool. Don’t worry if the mixture looks runny, it will thicken as it cools.
The sauce will keep for up to a week, just place in a lidded container in the fridge.
Rupert Hardy, chairman of the North Dorset CPRE, has been exploring the long history of the Dorset button
Modern Dorset Buttons made by Anna at Henry’s Buttons Image: Anna McDowell
It all goes back to Abraham Case, a soldier who fought in the Wars of Religion that ravaged Europe from the 16th to 18th centuries. He saw soldiers replace buttons on their uniforms by twisting a piece of cloth over a form and fastening it with a thread, but he may have been influenced in part by Brussels lace. He was also impressed by the skills in the buttoner’s art, seen in the work of Northern French and Belgian button makers. He realised that Dorset had all the raw materials readily at hand: fabric, discs cut from the horns of Dorset Horn sheep and thread. Although originally from the Cotswolds, Abraham married a local girl. He set up his business in 1622 in Shaftesbury, going on to open depots in Bere Regis and other mid-Dorset villages. The catalyst for growing demand was the change in mens’ fashions at this time, from the old doublet and hose to a more modern waistcoat and breeches – which required buttons, of course. By the middle of the 18th century, nearly 700 women and children worked for the Case company alone, while up to 4,000 buttoners were employed in the industry around Shaftesbury and 3,000 around Blandford. The workforce were mostly outworkers; women and retired farm workers were able to make buttons from home. In North Dorset button making was the biggest industry, albeit a cottage one, and second only to farming in employment. Tracy Chevalier’s book, Burning Bright, features a character, Maisie, who makes money from buttony.
The original Dorset High Top (left), and a Dorset Knob button. Image: Anna McDowell
High Tops and Knobs The first buttons were called High Tops, and were mostly used on women’s dresses. The horn disc was covered by material and made into a conical button using a needle and thread. Flatter versions were called Dorset Knobs, and were possibly the inspiration for the local baked biscuit of that name. In 1731 a Yorkshireman, John Clayton, was brought in to reorganise the business after a bad fire at the Bere Regis depot. He used his contacts with Birmingham wire manufacturers to switch to metal rings, which were cheaper than horn. Some of these buttons were made using wire twisted on a spindle, called Singletons. Other variations, using a ring and thread, were called Blandford Cartwheels. The town’s earlier Huguenot lace industry was by then in decline, but the button makers had found a new use for the fine lace thread. The highest quality buttons were mounted on pink card, and exported, while seconds came on blue. The best buttoners could make a gross a day, earning three shillings and sixpence, much more than the day rate for an agricultural labourer.
Royal fans The quality of Dorset buttons was noticed in London, where High Tops soon adorned the waistcoats of courtiers. There is speculation that Charles I went to his execution wearing a waistcoat made with Dorset buttons. Much later, Queen Victoria had a dress trimmed with Dorset Knobs. Cartwheels are probably the most popular buttons made today. Unbuttoned Sadly, the Industrial Revolution destroyed many cottage industries, including Dorset’s button-making. Benjamin Saunders began making machined buttons from his London workshop and took out a patent in 1813 for his fabric buttons. The death knell finally came with John Aston’s patented button-making machine which was demonstrated to great effect at the Great Exhibition of 1851. There was no way the Dorset buttoners could compete. There was acute distress across mid-Dorset, and from Shaftesbury alone 350 families were sent to the colonies at government expense. The situation had been made worse by the repeal of the Corn Laws in 1840 and the arrival of cheap food from the colonies, bringing in its wake a long-lasting depression in rural Dorset in the late 19th century. Farmers were forced to mechanise to compete and laid off thousands of agricultural labourers. Thomas Hardy’s tragic novels of rural hardship were based in this period, and the effects can be seen in the parish censuses of the time. At Winterborne Tomson, where I live, there were 53 inhabitants in 1841 but by 1891 this had halved. Those who left either emigrated or went to work in the factories of the North.
A revival of the Dorset button industry is inspiring a new range of crafts – these are hair clips, key fobs and yarn pins, all based on a traditional Dorset button by YarnWhirled.com
New buttons for MPs Florence, the Dowager Lady Lees, tried to resurrect the button industry, learning from women who had been button makers long before. In 1908 she set up a small business making Parliamentary buttons for Dorset MPs in the constituency colours, but it died with the onset of World War 1. Today Dorset buttons are a heritage craft, but there has been some renewed interest – in particular Anna McDowell of Henry’s Buttons, near Shaftesbury, aims to help keep the history and skill of the Dorset button industry alive, organising workshops and talks. There is a permanent display of Dorset buttons at the Gold Hill Museum in Shaftesbury, and I recommend Thelma Johns’ book Dorset Buttons: Hand Stitched in Dorset for over 300 Years.
This month, Toots Bartlett’s head groom Eve reflects on joining an eventing team and has been enjoying the quiet season to get ahead on much needed yard work.
I’m Eve and I started working for TB Eventing in May this year and am lucky enough to be Toot’s head groom, having always worked within the Equestrian industry covering different disciplines. I am quickly learning the different responsibilities of being a head groom within Eventing and am thoroughly enjoying the multi facets of skills necessary in both horse and rider to compete competitively across the triathlon of dressage, show-jumping and cross-country. It makes for a varied and fascinating skill set and as I enjoy organisation so much I have really enjoyed stepping up to the challenge.
There is no denying we are now into the winter months. One of the perks of the eventing season being in the warmer months is the lack of plaiting over winter! As much as this is one of my favourite things to do, and is still necessary for dressage competitions during the winter, the chilly weather undoubtedly makes it more difficult on your fingers. Currently Toot’s horses are on a holiday at her family home where grazing (much to the horses delight) has been well rested and plentiful. However, the holidays are coming to end and December sees them all coming back into work. A gradual planned strength and conditioning programme is introduced for each horse to bring it back to full fitness over a period of approximately 12 weeks. With the majority of the horses on holiday it has given us time to concentrate on one of my favourite horses, Charlie, who sadly is being prepared and produced to sell in the Spring. He has been going to dressage and show-jumping competitions, winning almost every time out at Elementary level and with a incredible technique over a fence. I wish I could I would buy him myself as he will make someone the perfect horse, he is so utterly beautiful. The very useful down time in November has given us a perfect opportunity to get the horses stables at Fox-Pitt Eventing emptied, power-washed, disinfected, painted and much needed maintenance work done so they are fresh for the season ahead of us.
Erin, our new member of staff, is getting on really well and fits in excellently with the team dynamic. We are also extremely fortunate to have help from Donna Hills, who was Paul Nicols travelling Head Groom for 25 years. I personally am benefiting hugely from all her experience of travelling horses as I am doing my HGV training next week, so her help has been invaluable. With extra help on the ground it gives us more time for more horses. We have consequently been on the search for a couple of 4 legged projects to join the team. However, after several failed vettings and some frustrations we hope to be introducing you to two new faces next month. The season concluded with all of us at TB super excited to watch Kazuma Tomoto compete at the final 5* in Pau, France. Kazuma is stabled next to Toots and it gives our team huge inspiration to aim high for the competitive months next year.
Hidden away in a fold of Cranborne Chase outside Shaftesbury, Gritchie Brewery is crafting a fine reputation. Laura Hitchcock reports
Inside the Gritchie Brewery All images: Courtenay Hitchcock
Ask North Dorset residents about Gritchie Brewery and you get one of two answers. The first is usually: “Oh, LOVE their beer!” The second is: “oh, that’s Guy Ritchie’s, isn’t it?” – and to be honest, it’s often said with a mildly belittling tone. Because yes, this IS film director, producer and screenwriter Guy Ritchie’s company. But it’s very clear that this is no vanity project. Beyond the local area, where people know that Guy Ritchie lives on the estate just north of Shaftesbury, the Gritchie branding is never advertised with Guy Ritchie’s name. The beer is expected to stand on its own merits (though perhaps with a little A-List movie advertising help – watch the opening scenes of The Gentlemen closely, and you’ll see Matthew McConaughey enjoying a pint of Gritchie’s English Lore before he leaves the pub and passes a Gritchie delivery van) – and the business is entirely self-supporting. ‘It’s a bit frustrating in some ways’ says Gritchie Brewery’s Nick Brown, who spent nine years as a police officer in Dorset before emigrating to Australia with his wife to serve in the Australian police. They returned to the UK as COVID restrictions lifted, and, looking for a change in career, Nick applied to Gritchie Brewery. Now he’s overseeing sales and running the brewery’s busy schedule of attendance at events – their horsebox bar is a familiar sight at shows and fairs across the south. ‘Everyone thinks it’s a massive boon to have this famous name behind the brand,’ Nick continues, ‘but actually it’s almost like we have to work twice has hard to have the beer taken seriously by some people. So many celebrities just put their name on someone else’s product and await the financial return. But Guy’s a very exacting boss. He is in the office most days that he’s here in Dorset – he’s really hands-on with the business’.
Outside, Gritchie Brewery own all their own kegs to allow recycling
Field to firkin Working from Gritchie’s Ashcombe estate, tucked away in the chalk hills behind Shaftesbury, the Gritchie Brewing Company staff have a daily view that many would envy. Standing in the yard, surrounded by the usual rural sounds of birds, running water and a distant tractor, there is no hint that a busy brewery is inside the buildings surrounding the peaceful courtyard.
The view into the brewery from the oldest part of the farm complex
‘We do everything here except canning and bottling,’ says Nick. ‘We did try bottling ourselves, but the machinery takes up so much space. Economically it was better to outsource it. But the Maris Otter Barley is grown on the Ashcombe estate, we draw water from a bore hole on the estate, we brew the beer here, and everything is packaged in these buildings by the team. We even do all our own deliveries where possible, serving all the local outlets ourselves, right along the south coast, plus weekly runs to London for Guy’s Lore of The Land Pub in Fitzrovia. We literally follow the product from field to bar. ‘We have a huge drive to be as environmentally conscious as possible. Even the kegs are ours, so they can be constantly recycled and reused.’
Head brewer Alix Blease explained the basic brewing process, starting with the sacks of barley arriving back at the farm as malt. It is poured into the mash tun with hot water to create a mash. After 45 minutes, the sweet liquid wort is washed into a kettle, or copper, where it is boiled for an hour, and the hops are added at various stages depending on which beer is being made. ‘Local hops would be cheapest, obviously, but British hops tend to be dark and musky flavoured. Great for traditional British bitter ales, but a modern IPA needs a bright, zesty flavour, so we have to go further afield.’ The now-redundant grain isn’t wasted. It’s collected by a local farmer to use for animal feed. Gritchie brew 4,100 litre batches – limited by the size of their tanks. Every part of the equipment and process is carefully selected and controlled. ‘We’re all about consistency.’ says Alix. ‘We believe in Do it once, do it right. An independent craft brewery lives and dies by the reputation of its product. Because we’re making relatively small batches, we can be really responsive and brew to demand, which also means very little wastage.’ Nick agrees: ‘It’s no good us selling the beer into a pub, and having the landlord tell us the customers don’t like it this week because it’s not as good as last time. They trust us to always provide the same product. If their customers like it, the landlords will buy it. If we’re reliable in our product, we get loyalty from our customers in return. It’s good for everyone.’
Flexi-brewing It’s been a tough year for beer. There has been a 40 to 50 per cent increase in raw material costs since last summer. Heineken recently announced that they are increasing their prices by 15 per cent in January. But Alix is feeling positive. ‘Because we do so much ourselves, a lot of our costs are negated, using our own water from a borehole, for example, and selling more cask beer which doesn’t require CO2. We don’t plan to raise prices at all if we can possibly help it.’
The Break Room – the ceiling is made from old cheese store shelving
Nick feels they also have some business advantages over their bigger competitors. ‘We don’t have their scale, obviously, but we’re a small team of seven; three in production, two on deliveries, Sally in the office and me. And no matter what our official job is, really we all do everything – we were all labelling this morning, getting product packaged up. But that means we have a very close relationship with our customers and can react quickly to their needs.
Gritchie Brewery’s head brewer Alix Blease
We’ve been able to offer local pubs smaller casks, for instance – many of them are reducing their opening hours due to their own staffing and cost issues, so they don’t want a large keg opened which they only have three days to sell through. We can also respond swiftly – we can generally get stock out to them within 24 hours, often same day if they’re not far. And we’re always on the end of the phone for advice and a chat.’ The whole team is aware of the need to balance the cask ales and traditional tastes of their rural heart, while also serving the city palates of their London fans. Alix is constantly looking at new flavours and ways to develop – but for now keep your eyes peeled for the new Galaxy New England IPA. We finished our tour in the Break Room (opposite top) with a swift half of the new beer, and it’s light, slightly citrusy, explosively smooth and astonishingly delicious.
There are worse places to work …
You can buy Gritchie Beer at the following local outlets: Dikes supermarket: Ansty PYO Farm: Shaftesbury Wines: Udder Farm Shop: Shaftesbury Abbey: Morrisons Shaftesbury: or online at gritchiebrew.com/shop Or ask your local freehouse landlord if he’ll stock it.
