From clearing beds to sowing seeds and preparing dahlias for the cold months, Pete Harcom has plenty of jobs to get your patch winter-ready

It’s time to clear up for the winter! Gardeners can make use of those odd dry days to allow the clear-up to be done before the harshest winter weather sets in.
Clear faded and dying annual climbers such as sweet peas from their supports.
Clear up fallen leaves and put them in plastic bags or in a heap to rot down as leaf mould (this may take a year or so) which can then be used as a mulch.
Sowing seeds in a cold greenhouse is a nice job to do at this time of year. Some good picks are sweet peas, ajuga reptans (really good for ground cover), cornflowers, astrantias, corydalis solida and allium sphaerocephalon to name just a few!
When clearing up flowerbeds, try to keep off wet soil to avoid compacting it. If you must get in there, use wooden boards to spread your weight.
It is a good idea to leave plants with attractive seed heads, such as rudbeckia, sea holly (eryngium), teasels, love-in-a-mist and ornamental grasses, as these can provide valuable food for birds in the winter months. They can also be used in flower arrangements. Cut down the old seedheads in spring, when the new growth starts to appear.
If you haven’t got to it yet, there is still time to plant spring bulbs and bare-rooted trees and shrubs before the colder weather.
Dahlia care
Dahlias are not frost hardy and will not survive severe cold, so enjoy every last bit of those dramatic flowers, which are still coming thick and fast in this mild weather.
To overwinter your dahlias, you can safely wait until the first autumn frost blackens the foliage before taking action.
After the frost – and once the foliage has died back – cut the stems down to about 10-15cm above the ground … and now you must decide whether to lift or mulch …
Lift and store (recommended for colder areas or heavy soils): This is the most reliable method for protecting your dahlia tubers. Gently lift the tubers from the soil using a fork, being careful not to damage them. Trim off any fine or damaged roots and leave them to dry for a few days. Store them in shallow boxes, packed around with peat-free compost or dry sand, ensuring the crown is exposed. Keep them in a cool, dry, frost-free place, such as a garage or shed, until spring. Inspect the stored tubers regularly for any signs of rot and discard any that are unhealthy or damaged to prevent rot from spreading.
Mulch (for milder, well-drained areas): This simpler method may work well for The BV readers, as Dorset is generally milder than much of the country. Cover the tubers – still in the soil – with a thick layer of mulch, such as bark or composted leaves or straw, to insulate them from the cold.

Barry Cuff takes a look back through his diary at what happened on his Sturminster Newton plot last month

The autumn weather has been unusually mild, with few nights dropping below 10ºC and no frosts. A balanced mix of sun, cloud and rain kept temperatures frequently above 15ºC, encouraging continued growth and prolonged flowering. As a result, both plants and weeds have remained in bloom well into the season, especially on sunny days. Moth mullein, shoo fly, borage, feverfew and thornapple have all been flowering, alongside cultivated favourites like nasturtiums, dahlias, cosmos and nicotiana. Many weeds are still flowering at the end of the month too: speedwell, red dead-nettle, groundsel, dandelion and gallant soldier are all still showing colour.
These blooms have attracted a steady stream of pollinators – including red admiral, peacock, cabbage white, comma and even a clouded yellow butterfly – as well as hoverflies, wasps and, on one occasion, a solitary hummingbird hawkmoth.
The ivy in the hedgerow, now in full flower, has also proved especially popular with visiting insects.
We’ve planted part of the flower area with wallflowers and Sweet Williams, ready to bloom in 2026.

Groundwork – As old crops have been cleared (runner and French beans, sweetcorn and squashes) the ground was left fallow and quickly produced a flush of new weed seedlings. One small area has been dug where the garlic will be planted in November.
Weedy Areas – Strimmed to stop seeding, to be dug in next year.
Compost – We have emptied out one of our heaps: we have four, all at different stages. This one was about three years old, and produced more than 30 wheelbarrow loads of excellent compost.
Green manure – We now have about 20 per cent of the allotment sown with phacelia.
Manure – There was a delay to the arrival date, should now arrive mid-November.
Harvesting – We’re still picking carrots, beetroot, parsnip, leeks, celeriac, salad leaves, radish, spring onion, courgette, Chinese cabbage and radicchio.
Tomatoes and peppers – Picking the last of these for the year.
In store and the freezer – Potatoes, onions, sweetcorn, French beans, garlic and peas.
Preserves – This month we’ve made jam from currants and strawberries, and pickled cabbage, beetroot and gherkins.
Winter squashes – On 9th October we harvested seven Crown Prince and eight butterfly butternut (the largest weighed 8lbs!)
Brassicas – All looking well under a protective net. Still the odd caterpillar and whitefly to remove.
Red Drumhead red cabbage, cutting as required
Ironman calabrese, producing small side shoots
Cheesy cauliflower, last head cut on 29th October
Cendis cauliflower, plants starting to produce heads, will be ready to cut late November
Brendan sprouts have buttons the size of marbles – they will be ready in December
Purple sprouting broccoli, strong healthy plants, will be ready late December onwards
Spring cabbage and cauli, both looking well.
Fruit – Thanks to the good weather we had two or three pickings of strawberries. It’s been a good year for our conference pears too: they are excellent when poached in home-made wine and spices!