Dorset’s lifetime achievers

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24 November 2024

At this year’s Love Local Trust Local Awards, a new honour was introduced to allow us to recognise not only those currently creating the best food in the county, but also those who have dedicated a lifetime to supporting its producers and growers. The winners – Charlie Goodland, Andrew Robinson and Roger Penny – each have a legacy of service to Dorset – Barbara Cossins

Charlie Goodland

Charlie owns and runs C & S Meats, an abattoir near Sherborne, where he is known for his love of the work and deep respect for animals.
Born into a farming family he learnt to shoot as soon as he could handle a gun safely, as well as how to skin the animals he shot and deal with the carcasses. He started work on the family farm, but as soon as a job came up in a Yetminster butchers, he jumped at the opportunity: “I was mentored by a fabulous old guy called Maurice ‘Mitch’ Mitchell, who taught me everything he knew about humane slaughter practices, and to really care for the animals.” Charlie eventually left Yetminster to work in a large slaughterhouse, and in 1996 set up his own business.
Charlie has always been interested in animal welfare, and he holds an extraordinary number of different slaughter licenses. His personal favourite animal is a wild boar: “I like how clever and slick they are. You need to be on your A-game when they’re around,” he says.
Charlie is a huge contributor to the food and farming community in Dorset, and he’s known for his unflappable calmness. Whether it’s a drop in meat prices, negotiating for full use of the animal, the impact of covid or protecting his staff and business, he meets them all head on with a smile, and he has done for more than 30 years.

Andrew Robinson

Andrew is firmly committed to protecting Dorset’s land, animals and infrastructure so that farming, business and residents can live in harmony. Symonds & Sampson have been in business almost 170 years, and for much of that time they have been one of the leading auctioneers and surveyors in the region.
Many people see a Symonds & Sampson board on the side of the road and think they simply buy & sell property – but it’s much more than that. Over a career of more than 40 years, Andrew has championed a whole host of causes within the agricultural community, including ensuring livestock is cared for properly during the sales process, access and compensation for both water and electricity during rural sales, expert advice in complex farm property sales, detailed succession planning as well as architectural help for farm sales and tenancies on both sides of the partnership.
To say he is a good mentor and great mediator is a huge understatement.
There have only been three senior partners at Symonds & Sampson in more than 40 years – Andrew being one. It is testament to his reputation and wise brain that he is still quoted today by many of the current and younger staff when making decisions: “What would Andrew do?” is a solid Symonds & Sampson benchmark.

Roger Penny

Roger began his career at Wessex Grain (now Cefetra Grain) in Henstridge in 1985, aged just 16 years old. He quickly established himself as an essential member of the team, working on the intake, storage and out-loading of grain across both the flat stores and the silos. Roger swiftly became the principal operator of the three Svegma grain dryers, mastering the intricate and often temperamental routes of conveyors and elevators that feed 21 silos and three flat stores. His dedication and expertise were unmatched, and over time, he became a familiar and respected figure to all the lorry drivers and local farmers delivering to or collecting from the store.
Sadly, after 39 harvests of committed service, Roger was forced to leave Cefetra this summer due to health issues. His absence has left a notable gap in the company, where he was not only a vital operator but also a cherished colleague and friend to many in the local agricultural community.

Peter Ursem – 25 years of printmaking

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Editorial team

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23 November 2024

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A Dutch artist who came to North Dorset in the 1990s celebrates a quarter of a century of creativity in Dorset and Cornwall

Early morning, along the river, 2023.
© Peter Ursem

At the end of the 1990s, Dutch artist Peter Ursem came to North Dorset with his musician wife Helen Porter. She had been appointed as music animateur for Confluence*, a three-year cultural and environmental project to celebrate the Stour, from where it rises at Stourhead in Wiltshire, down to the sea at Christchurch Harbour.
While Helen began a long and exciting programme, bringing people together to sing, write songs and music and perform, Peter also became involved in Confluence, his skills as a printmaker contributing striking and original art works throughout the project. His contributions ranged from simple but stylish prints of fish for England’s first Water Market, a national gathering for producers involved with water, at Blandford in 2000, to a series of prints supported by an Arts Council award.
Some of his work from the Confluence period, such as the lino-cut of Colber Bridge, will be on show in his 25th anniversary exhibition at Shaftesbury Arts Centre, from 30th October to 12th November. The exhibition will also include a broad selection of new works: prints, designs and paintings.

One of Peter’s earliest prints, dating from 1998, showing the former Lloyds Bank and Waltons furniture shop, on the corner of Castle Street and North Street in Mere. © Peter Ursem

Woodcuts of the Stour
After graduating in literature from the University of Utrecht and in painting and printmaking from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in The Hague, Peter arrived in Dorset in 1998 and fell in love with the lines and shapes of the English landscape. He started exploring ways to capture what he saw in relief printmaking (woodcuts, lino prints and wood engravings) and was soon completely hooked.
He recalls the thrill of his early efforts: ‘I was gripped by this simple but strikingly powerful technique. I was so excited when I produced my first print of a street view in Mere.’
His print-making was given a big boost in 2000, with an Arts Council award for a series called Reflections, Woodcuts of the River Stour – the 30 wood-cuts were exhibited at the Slade Centre in Gillingham and published in a book.
He became a member of the highly respected Poole Printmakers. When the presses that belonged to the group’s founder, printmaker and artist John Liddell, were being sold, with help from two committee members and an agreement to spread payments over two years, Peter was able to buy one, a Victorian Hopkinson & Cope press (above).
The purchase enabled him to start specialising in reduction lino-prints, a technique where consecutive colour layers are printed from just one block.
As his skill, range of subject matter and use of colour all developed, Peter’s work acquired a strong local following. One of his most high-profile commissions (in a literal sense) was to provide a new mast-head for the front cover of the original Blackmore Vale Magazine. Familiar features of the Blackmore Vale, from Stourhead to dairy cattle, were depicted in the much-loved design. Peter’s commission also included similarly characteristic designs for the Fosse Way Magazine (covering a lot of Somerset) and the Stour and Avon Magazine.
He also showed great skill as a curator, working for Salisbury Hospital at Odstock, where he ran the successful Arts In Hospital project, filling the corridors with exciting and often challenging work – abstract, figurative, landscape, portrait – creating a gallery that was not only interesting for visitors but a stimulating environment for staff and patients.

Peter Ursem’s mast-head of the original Blackmore Vale Magazine

Overwhelmed by the beauty
In 2011, some years after the end of Confluence, Peter and Helen moved to Cornwall, settling near Calstock, at Gresham House Studios, a former mine captain’s house. Peter’s spacious art studio has spectacular views towards Morwelham Quay, with Dartmoor in the background and ever-changing skies above.
Peter says: ‘Initially, I felt so overwhelmed by the beauty, purity and magic of the landscape that not much more than soaking it all up seemed possible.’ But as he became more used to the unique atmosphere of their new home, he found that immersion in his surroundings led to a flurry of new and more intricate lino-prints, as well as atmospheric charcoal drawing and oil paintings.
Peter’s subject matter is usually landscape, exploring deeper than simple realism. A series focusing on Dartmoor captures both the surface aesthetic attraction of the landscape and the often disturbing, almost primeval, majesty of the moor. The moor is, he says, a continuous source of inspiration.

Peter Ursem in his studio with his Victorian Hopkinson & Cope press

A fiction ambition
The history of Gresham House played a part in Peter’s own writing career. In 2016, he fulfilled his long-held ambition to write fiction, when he published The Fortune of the Seventh Stone, a young adult novel written under his Dutch name, Petrus Ursem. The setting is a mine captain’s house, with nearby atmospheric ruins of tin mines and a cast of colourful characters. The book is a genuine page-turner, with a real sense of place. It was followed by The Truth Teller (2018) and Black As Ink (2020), together making up the Steven Honest Trilogy.
In 2022, Peter branched out into a different style of story-telling, publishing The Bigger Picture, a collection of witty and thoughtful fables for adult readers. He is currently working on a new book of fables, Stellar Celebrations.
Over the years, Peter has established a tradition of reading stories during his exhibitions, and he will be doing this at the Shaftesbury exhibition: every morning at 11am, he will read one of his fables and be available to chat about his work and his approaches to art and writing. Stellar Celebrations is not quite finished, but he will be reading from The Bigger Picture. If you’re not able to come to the exhibition you can order his books online from the gallery shop on his website.

• 25 Years of Printmaking exhibition at Shaftesbury Art Centre, 10am to 4pm daily. Free admission.
• For more information about Peter Ursem’s work as artist and writer or to order a book, visit peterursem.co.uk

**CONFLUENCE – was created by the ground-breaking Shaftesbury-based environmental arts charity, Common Ground, to encourage new music for the Stour. There followed an extraordinary range of participatory music events and programmes, workshops, courses and concerts. Composer and musician Karen Wimhurst, who lives in Shaftesbury, was the composer in residence.

Countdown: upcoming events for a merry season

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Editorial team

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22 November 2024

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• THE POLAR EXPRESS™ Train Ride in Swanage Running from 23rd Nov to Christmas Eve: it’s an hour-long train journey with a fully-themed, production of songs and moments from the movie on the platform, and then hot chocolate and a cookie delivered to you in your carriage by THE POLAR EXPRESS™ chefs.
£46.95 per person
swanagethepolarexpresstrainride.co.uk

• Harts of Stur Late Night Opening
After many years absence, the popular event is returning for 2024! On Thursday 5th December, Harts will stay open until 7:30pm, with festive fun for the whole family, including face painting for the kids and a special visit from Santa. Grown-ups can keep cosy with mulled wine and mince pies in the Coffee Loft.

• Christmas Magic at The Blue Pool
From 30th November to 23rd December, children can visit Santa in his grotto (£15 per child, booking required). Take a peaceful winter stroll through the Nature Reserve, enjoy hot, seasonal drinks on the terrace by the fire pits, surrounded by twinkling lights and get crafty and create fun decorations while enjoying a cup of delicious hot chocolate (£5 per person)
bluepooltearooms.co.uk/events

• Carols in the Gardens
FREE carol concert on Thursday 19th December, 6.30pm to 7.30pm in Dorchester’s Borough Gardens, accompanied by Durnovaria Silver Band and Encore Singers. Carol books will be provided, so everyone can take part. Mulled wine and snacks will be available to purchase

• Wimborne Save the Children Parade
On Saturday 14th December, the parade of will start at 2pm from Eaton’s (formerly Cobham’s) car park. Father Christmas will stop at the Museum of East Dorset where he will remain with his sack of presents – children will be welcome to visit him there and receive a (free) small gift.
Carols in the Corn Market
Wimborne’s magical Annual Event is on Friday 20th December at 6pm. Music provided by Broadstone Community Concert Band and singing accompanied by choristers from Wimborne Minster.

Venison Chilli

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Editorial team

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22 November 2024

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We asked local chef Philippa Davis, the food writer for The Field, for the best place to start when cooking game. Philippa also researched and wrote the recipes for the Deepest Books series (Deepest Dorset, Deepest Wiltshire and Deepest Somerset):

If you are new to trying venison meat, firstly I must say you are in for a treat! You are about to try some of the most delicious, sustainable and nutritious meat we have here in the UK.
Although less fatty, it is very similar to cooking and eating beef, and the various venison cuts can be swapped in for most recipes: use it in your next bolognese, cottage pie, curry, pie or ‘steak’ and chips. This hearty venison chilli recipe makes the most of the rich, flavourful meat. It can be made a couple of days ahead and it also freezes well, so is great for batch cooking. As well as the venison, I’ve put in italics ingredients you can source from local producers. Philippa

Ingredients

2 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil
500g wild British venison mince (Dorset Game Larder)
1 red onion, peeled and finely diced
3 medium cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
30g fresh coriander, stalks finely chopped, leaves roughly chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp chipotle paste
½ – 1 tsp of chilli powder depending how much spice you like
1 x 400g chopped tin tomatoes
1 tsp Dorsetshire sauce (From Dorset With Love) or Worcestershire sauce
1 x 400g tin of kidney beans, strained and lightly rinsed
30g 70% Chocolate (Chococo)

To serve

4 – 6 tbsp of plain yogurt (The Dorset Dairy Company)
4 tbsp grated cheese (try Hardy’s from The Book and Bucket Company or Coastal Cheddar)

Method

In a heavy-based pan on a medium heat, add the oil and venison mince. Season with salt and pepper and – stirring often with a wooden spoon to help break up the meat – fry until the moisture has evaporated and the meat starts to brown (this will take about 15 minutes).
Once the meat has browned, add the onions, garlic and coriander stalks. Still stirring often, fry for another ten minutes until the onions start to soften.
Stir in the cumin, oregano, cinnamon, chipotle paste and chilli powder and cook for a couple of minutes before pouring in the tinned tomatoes. Fill the can with cold water, swill it around then tip into the pan.
Add the Dorsetshire sauce and bring to a simmer, then turn the heat down to low. Cook for one hour, stirring occasionally.
After an hour, stir in the kidney beans and chocolate. Continue to cook on a low heat for a further 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Finally take off the heat, stir in the coriander leaves and check the seasoning. This is now ready to serve.

I love to eat mine with basmati rice, tortilla chips, spoonfuls of yogurt, a sprinkling of cheese and a green leaf salad.

*Philippa Davis is a Dorset-based chef and food writer who loves to champion local produce. You can follow her foodie adventures on Instagram @philippadavis_food

Fantastic fungi in Dorset

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Editorial team

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21 November 2024

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Dorset Wildlife Trust’s conservation officer Mariko Whyte takes a closer look at just a few of the fungi you can find on a walk in Dorset

Yellow brain fungus (Tremella mesenterica) looking like orange jelly on the tree

When we think about nature, we often think of the plants, animals, birds and even insects and other invertebrates – but how about fungi? Fungi comprise some of the most diverse and fascinating organisms in the world, and they can survive and thrive in all habitats and under the most extreme conditions, even at the bottom of deep oceans.
They are vital to many ecosystems, playing a key role in nutrient cycling and breaking down organic matter, forming a key component of healthy soils and helping some plants access nutrients and water. They also provide a food resource for animals and people. Some are even able to break down plastics and hydrocarbons, and research is underway into their potential for cleaning up our messes including oil spills[1] and plastic pollution[2].
Fruiting of fungi is usually triggered by changing environmental conditions such as temperature, light and moisture. In the UK, we see many fungi starting to fruit in the autumn, as the hotter, drier summer weather gives way to our usual milder, wetter conditions.
Although many fungi might seem instantly recognisable, there are often very subtle differences between similar species and identification is difficult. Often, microscopic examination of spores is needed and even experts are frequently baffled, with new species being discovered every year in Britain.
Below are just a few examples of interesting fungi you can find in Dorset.

The parasol mushroom’s cap opens to a large, flat parasol up to 30cm across
Image: Tony Wilson

Parasol mushroom
A classic ‘mushroom’ which has a tall stalk and a cap with gills beneath. They are commonly found on permanent grassland, heathland and woodland glades throughout Dorset, including Greenhill Down near Blandford, usually appearing towards the end of the summer. The cap opens to a large, flat parasol up to 30cm across.

Yellow Brain fungus
This is a type of jelly fungus – it is parasitic, feeding on other fungi that feed on dead wood. It is common on gorse on heathlands but can also be found on other dead wood and in woodland such as Bracketts Coppice nature reserve near Yeovil. It can vary in colour from bright pale yellow to a rusty orange when dry.

Waxcaps are found where the soils have been undisturbed by ploughing or the use of fertilisers

Waxcaps
Waxcaps are a group of colourful grassland mushrooms which are great indicators of high quality, unimproved grassland. Often seen at our Kingcombe Meadows nature reserve near Maiden Newton, they are found where there is a long history of traditional grazing management and the soils have been undisturbed by ploughing or the use of fertilisers. They begin to appear in autumn, peaking in November, and they come in a range of colours from pink to bright red, orange, yellow, white and even green.

Turkeytail is a bracket-type fungus which grows in tiered clusters on dead wood

Turkey tail
This is a common bracket-type fungus which grows in tiered clusters on dead wood – it can be seen all year round. The fruiting bodies have pores beneath instead of gills. The common name comes from the concentric coloured patterning on their top surface. Turkey tail can be found at Ashley Wood nature reserve near Blandford and Girdlers Coppice nature reserve near Sturminster Newton.

Scarlet elf cups grow on damp woodland floor, or near rivers and ditches

Scarlet elf cups
These appear in winter through to early spring, and form bright red cups which are smooth inside and pale and downy on the outside. Recorded at Kilwood nature reserve near Wareham and Lorton Meadows in Weymouth, they are attached by a short stem to twigs and deadwood on the damp woodland floor, or near rivers and ditches. A puff of white spores is released from the upper surface in response to external triggers such as a change in temperature. Try blowing on the mature fruits in late winter to see this in action!

Devil’s fingers emerge from a gelatinous ‘egg’ – its tentacle-like arms are covered in a dark olive-coloured, smelly slime

Devil’s fingers
This is a strange-looking fungus which grows in grasslands and is recorded at Loscombe nature reserve near Bridport. The fungus emerges from a gelatinous ‘egg’ and its tentacle-like arms are covered in a dark olive-coloured, smelly slime which contains the spores. This attracts insects such as flies which help disperse the spores.

Earth balls are shaped like a leathery potato, solid with a brown/black interior

Earth balls
These are a group of similar-looking round fungi which grow on the woodland floor: find them at Holway Woods near Sherborne. They are shaped like a leathery potato, and are solid with a brown-black interior beneath the off-white outer skin. When mature, the inner flesh develops into powdery spores which are released through splits in the outer skin.

Practical Career Advice for Success in Dorset’s Competitive Job Market

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21 November 2024

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Dorset’s job market is brimming with opportunities across a range of industries, from technology to tourism. However, standing out as a strong candidate in such a competitive environment requires more than just ambition. It takes strategic planning, tailored applications, and a clear understanding of what local employers seek.

Navigating Dorset’s competitive job market means knowing where to look for roles that match your lifestyle and skills. Whether you’re returning to work or looking for greater flexibility, platforms like Jooble offer tailored opportunities for parents and professionals seeking work-from-home roles in areas like Poole, helping you stay career-focused without compromising on family commitments.

Mila Supinskaya Glashchenko Shutterstock

This guide offers practical advice to help job seekers in Dorset navigate the application process, develop essential skills, and secure meaningful roles. Whether you’re new to the workforce or looking to pivot your career, these tips will set you on the path to success.

Essential Skills Employers Look For

Employers in Dorset, as elsewhere, value a blend of technical and interpersonal skills. In technical fields, proficiency in data analysis, software development, and problem-solving are highly sought after. For roles in healthcare and tourism, communication and adaptability often top the list of desirable attributes.

Beyond technical expertise, candidates should highlight their ability to collaborate, lead, and think creatively. These soft skills are increasingly valued, particularly in industries requiring cross-functional teamwork. Tailoring applications to reflect these qualities demonstrates a clear understanding of what employers seek.

Practical Tips for Securing Your Dream Role

A standout application begins with a well-structured CV tailored to the role. For technical positions, the layout and presentation of information can make a significant difference. Tools such as CV layouts for technical roles provide templates designed to showcase key achievements and technical proficiencies effectively, ensuring that candidates leave a strong first impression.

Equally important is a tailored cover letter. Addressing specific requirements of the job description and providing examples of how past experiences align with these can set an applicant apart from the competition.

Research the company thoroughly before applying and use this information to refine your application and interview responses.

Building a Professional Network in Dorset

Networking is a critical tool for career advancement, particularly in a tight-knit community like Dorset. Establishing connections within your industry can provide access to unadvertised roles and valuable mentorship opportunities. Start by attending local business events, career fairs, and industry meet-ups. Many organisations in Dorset host workshops and seminars designed to foster professional relationships and skill development.

Leverage online platforms like LinkedIn to expand your network. Engaging with local professionals through comments, shares, and direct messages can open doors to potential opportunities. Remember, networking is as much about offering value to others as it is about seeking help. Sharing insights or connecting others within your network can help build lasting professional relationships.

Preparing for the Next Step

Securing an interview is just the beginning; excelling in that interview is where the real challenge lies. Start by practising common interview questions, focusing on providing clear, structured answers that highlight your skills and experience. Use the STAR method (Situation, Task, Action, Result) to frame responses, particularly for behavioural questions.

Another critical step is to understand the company’s culture and values. This knowledge allows you to tailor your answers to demonstrate your fit within the organisation. Show enthusiasm for the role and the company, but also be ready to ask insightful questions that reflect your genuine interest in contributing to their goals.

For technical roles, you might be asked to complete a practical assessment. Review the key skills and tools relevant to the position and practise beforehand if possible. Many candidates find success by demonstrating a clear methodology for solving problems, even if they don’t fully complete the task during the assessment.

Highlighting Dorset’s Hidden Career Opportunities

While larger employers often dominate job listings, Dorset is also home to a variety of small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) that provide unique opportunities. These businesses often value versatility and a hands-on approach, offering employees the chance to take on diverse responsibilities and make a tangible impact. Exploring local job boards, attending community job fairs, or even reaching out directly to companies can uncover these hidden opportunities.

Additionally, Dorset’s focus on sustainability has sparked growth in green industries, creating roles in renewable energy, environmental consultancy, and eco-tourism. Job seekers who align their skills with these emerging sectors can position themselves ahead of the curve.

The Role of Volunteering and Internships in Career Development

Volunteering and internships are powerful tools for career advancement, especially in competitive markets. Dorset offers numerous opportunities to gain hands-on experience while contributing to the community. For example, volunteering with local organisations or charities can help build transferable skills like leadership, project management, and communication.

Internships, particularly in technical or specialised roles, allow candidates to gain industry-specific experience and create valuable connections. Even short-term placements can make a significant difference when added to a CV, showcasing a commitment to growth and learning.

Staying Resilient and Continuing Skill Development

The path to career success often includes setbacks, but resilience can make all the difference. If an application or interview doesn’t go as planned, use it as a learning experience. Reach out for feedback when possible and incorporate it into future efforts.

Continual skill development is essential for staying competitive in Dorset’s dynamic job market. Online courses, certifications, and local training programs are excellent resources for building expertise in your field. For technical professionals, platforms like Coursera or edX offer courses in emerging areas such as machine learning, cloud computing, and cybersecurity, which are increasingly relevant in the local and global job market.

Hit the Hay

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Editorial team

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20 November 2024

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The season ended with a bang for Team Rimmer, and now the horses are off on their holidays while Jess hits the chores list

Wow – it’s the end of the season… how did that happen? October is a bit of a transition month for eventing folk, as we see out the final events of 2024. Our personal final runs were at Swalcliffe and Bicton, which brought some fab results – Max was 2nd at Swalcliffe, Elsa 6th and Jimmy 8th. Then at Bicton, Elsa jumped the fastest double clear of her class to finish an exciting 3rd in the 3*S – my best result at this level to date!
These guys will now enjoy a well-deserved break … which brings me nicely into this month’s topic, horses and holidays!
At the end of the season we have to decide what to do next with the horses. With no events now until March 2025, there are two options: they can either be turned away (which literally consists of some R&R in the field), or they can continue training through the winter – and there’s no right or wrong answers here, it all depends on what will benefit each individual horse.

The Rimmer holiday season
So what does that look like in terms of the Team Rimmer horses? Max and Jimmy, being on the younger side, have changed a huge amount this season, both mentally and physically. So they will spend November together in a big, grassy field, allowing everything they’ve learned to sink in, and giving their bodies time to strengthen up.
Mattie and Elsa are older, more established horses who know their jobs: for them, their holiday is less about absorbing information and more about giving them a physical rest.
On the other end of the spectrum is Henry … like any ten-year-old boy, his brain doesn’t particularly enjoy a quiet break – he’ll start bouncing off the walls! He likes to be kept thinking, so he’ll stay in work throughout November, and we’ll continue practicing dressage, show jumping and some arena cross-country to prepare for 2025.

Jess Rimmer on the gallops with Henry (Sir Henry Hall), who will not be getting a holiday: he likes to be kept thinking, so he’ll stay in work through November

We talk a lot about the importance of routine for the horses – obviously turning the horses out in a big field for a month is a big change for them, so it is something we do gradually over a week or so. Since their final events, we have slowly reduced their workload and changed their diet from the more energising competition feed onto a Spillers balancer, to ensure they get all the vitamins and minerals they need, without the extra competition oomph! They have all had a final physio session to ensure they feel tip-top, and the farrier will take off their shoes before they are turned out. Not only does this decrease the risk of injury, but also gives their feet time to grow out and strengthen.

Jess’ exciting plans
So how will I be spending my November, if most of the horses are on holiday? Although it is quieter, I will absolutely not be bored – life is so hectic through the season, it’s difficult to find time to regroup. So I have some exciting plans: we have lots of rugs to wash, tack to sort, lorries to clean and all sorts of repairs to do! My favourite saddle has finally been sent off to Devoucoux to be restitched, too – I refuse to part with it while I’m in the midst of the competition season as I hate riding in anything else, so now is the perfect time.
And don’t worry, there are lots of horses continuing with their training over the winter here at Fox-Pitt Eventing, so I’m still going to get my riding fix!

Go wild in November

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Editorial team

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20 November 2024

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With British Game Week in November, now is the time to try some of the area’s best wild food from The Dorset Game Larder

The pheasant season runs from 1st October until 1st February for fresh birds. All Dorset Game Larder birds are dry plucked and dressed by hand, then packed individually and shrink wrapped. All birds are sourced from local shoots in Dorset.
Image: Gay Pirrie-Weir

It’s time to up your game! Great British Game Week runs from 4th to 10th November, so what better time to try some wild food from the local countryside? With cold winter nights drawing in, we all look forward to hearty casseroles, stews or pies, and Chris Tory of The Dorset Game Larder has a mouth-watering range, from partridge to venison, pigeon to squirrel, to encourage you to put some new dishes on the table for family and friends.
Fans of foraging and wild food programmes on television will be familiar with the arguments for finding food that is local, natural and ticks the sustainability and health boxes – and high protein, low fat game really does. Wild game also has a lower carbon footprint than most mass-produced meat, and the industry plays an important role in countryside management.
Now established as one of the most reliable game suppliers in the area, The Dorset Game Larder began in 2009 as a natural development from the small commercial shoots run by Chris and his brother on their farms near Blandford.
They started preparing birds for the table and gradually other local shoots asked them to deal with their surplus birds.
As the business grew, they were not only approached by more local shoots, but also asked to supply a large number of birds to the Hampshire-based Blackmore Game.
At one point, Chris recalls, they were taking birds from 28 local shoots.

Time to re-think
The Game Larder was set up in the old stables at the family farm, and that same year, the family sold their dairy cows. As the business grew, Chris joined the new Direct from Dorset organisation, which later became Dorset Food & Drink. He is a member of the successor organisation, but still displays the Direct from Dorset logo, which remains an important part of the identity of Dorset Game Larder products.
In 2012, Chris successfully applied to Chalk and Cheese, an EU-funded grant programme supporting the local food, drink and crafts sectors in rural areas. He received a grant of £5,000 for a chiller, which is still very much in use, functioning as a walk-in fridge or freezer, depending on the time of year.
The Blackmore Game partnership split up in 2015, with a considerable impact on Dorset Game Larder. ‘We downsized, and we had to come up with other products,’ says Chris. ‘We had already started making sausages and burgers. And we went back to working with just three or four shoots.’

Current Dorset Game Larder products: pheasant with venison stuffing, venison mince and pheasant breast ballantine

Venison for Christmas
Dealing in venison was an obvious next step. These large mammals have no natural predators in the UK and in some areas they are now in such numbers that they have an adverse effect on the environment, farming and forestry, making management of the wild animals a necessity. Sika deer are a particular problem in the Purbecks. Dorset Game Larder’s venison is also sourced from Bloxworth and Wareham forest. Sika are larger than native fallow and roe deer, but there is more meat-to-bone in the fallow breed.
Covid, followed by avian flu, both had a big impact on shoots and on the Game Larder. But while a lot of shoots have folded, others survived and a new large wild game business has opened at Oakland Park in Berkshire. Chris has observed a growing interest in game, and sales of venison in particular have increased.
The Dorset Game Larder sells venison in many forms – mince, burgers, sausages, diced ready to casserole, steaks, fillets and joints of shoulder or haunch, a Christmas favourite with a lengthy historic tradition.
Feathered game – pheasant, partridge, grouse, pigeon and wild duck – comes dressed, or you can just buy the breasts, a simple, quick dish for those not experienced in game cookery.
The wide selection of sausages and burgers includes venison, wild game, pheasant and rosemary, or pheasant and cranberry. Rabbit is always available, dressed or diced, and for those looking for something more adventurous (and helping with environmental protection), there is dressed squirrel. Legally classed as vermin – and infamous for the way they have driven the charming and much smaller native red squirrel out of much of mainland England – grey squirrels do a lot of damage to young trees and are a threat to nests and young birds. They taste a bit like rabbit, but stronger, says Chris.
You can visit the Dorset Game Larder farm shop near Shapwick. Local retailers who carry Chris’s wild game include Dike’s at Stalbridge, Richardson’s Budgens in Swanage, Stuart Pearce’s butcher’s shop in Blandford, Pamphill Butchers, Enford farm shop near Shillingstone and Vines Close farm shop near Wimborne.

Dike & Son in Stalbridge have fully-stocked game shelves during the season, thanks to The Dorset Game Larder

How do you cook it?
Chris’s go-to book for venison inspiration is Jose Souto’s Venison: The Game Larder. The former House of Commons chef and lecturer at the Westminster Kingsway College is one of this country’s leading game experts. With photographs by Steve Lee, the book is a comprehensive guide to venison, covering everything from provenance and management to recipes by Jose and other top chefs including Tom Kerridge, Phil Vickery and Peter Gordon. Jose says: ‘In the UK we no longer have any predator species to prey on venison because we got rid of all the bears and wolves and lynxes. We have a moral obligation to manage them. It is also a very ethical way of harvesting. The deer have not been put in trucks and transported, or put on a stainless steel gangway to be shot. The deer spend all their life living outside in the countryside doing what they are supposed to do. And there’s no suffering or stress when they are killed.
‘Some people challenge that, but I don’t understand their argument. They eat chickens – and look at how so much of our chicken is produced.’
Jose has also written a companion volume, Feathers: The Game Larder and a third focusing on small furred game is planned. If you can find a copy, Julia Drysdale’s 1975 Game Cookery Book (follow the link to find them on Abebooks – Ed), which she compiled for the Game Conservancy Council, is a great practical guide, with reliable recipes. Clarissa Dickson-Wright’s Game Cookbook is, as you would expect, knowledgeable and full of her extravert personality, and Glorious Game, published in 2019, features recipes from 101 chefs, including Angela Hartnett, Margot Henderson, Tom Kerridge, Jeremy Lee, Tom Aikens, Paul Ainsworth, Sat Bains and Ollie Dabbous. All proceeds directly benefit The Moorland Communities Trust and The Game and Wildlife Conservation Trust.

thedorsetgamelarder.co.uk
Meet the Dorset Game Larder team at the Dorset Food and Drink Winter Fair at Athelhampton House, Saturday 9th and Sunday 10th November, from 10am to 3pm.

Pride and Prejudice* (*sort of) comes to Poole

By

LauraHitchcock

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19 November 2024

0

Pride & Prejudice is hallowed turf, and fans will naturally be apprehensive about Isobel McArthur’s ‘raucous’, ‘audacious’, ‘irreverant’ and ‘riotous’ version of their hallowed turf.

Direct from its triumph in the West End – where it won the Laurence Olivier Award for Best Comedy – Pride and Prejudice* (*sort of) is now on tour, and last night was the start of its week run at Lighthouse Poole, until 23rd November.

It’s silly, it’s sweary, it’s loud and foolish and fun … and it manages to utterly capture the heart of the iconic book.

The familiar story unfolds as expected, but is told through the eyes of the five servant girls in the Bennett house as they act out the parts of ‘them upstairs’.

To keep the script tight and pacey, some characters have been dropped. Writer Isobel McArthur says: ‘There are 119 named characters in the original Pride & Prejudice. We have reduced this to an essential 18, played by just five actors. Lightning-fast costume changes are required from the cast throughout. They also play the instruments, sing the songs and perform all the scene changes.
‘However, this is not merely in the interests of economy. In our adaption, the Pride & Prejudice story is told by the female servants of a Regency-era household. During the Napoleonic wars, these women really did it all.’

Those speed character and costume switches are part of the joy – you never know who is going to pop out from where. And while the story runs true to the original, there’s a new twist to Charlotte Lucas which made complete sense – and provides an aching sadness for her character when she appears, running beneath the Bennett’s cheerfully chaotic mayhem.

The chemistry among the cast was tangible, they were having the best time and brought the whole audience along with them for the joy of it. All the familiar characters are exaggerated and enlarged, a natural consequence of seeing them from the perspective of house servants with their naturally mocking air. Bingley was bonkers – not so quiet and gentle as he’s usually perceived, but frenetic and silly and lots of fun. Naomi Preston’s Wickham was hilariously awful (and we saw far too little of him) and Rhianna McGreevy’s brilliant Darcy was played with Colin Firth-esque stillness and contained fury. I loved the nod to the unspoken thoughts of the audience when he unexpectedly met Elizabeth at Pemberley (‘you’re looking awfully dry, sir… don’t fancy a swim?). The delicious growing tension between Darcy and Elizabeth was perfect, eventually strong enough to see how ardently he admired and loved her…

As I’ve grown older I’ll admit I have grown in sympathy with the much-maligned Mrs Bennett, and Isobel McArthur’s malicious version oddly kept me on her side – while still mocking her absolute stupidity and awfulness of course. She’s the only one that genuinely seems to understand the very real consequences of her girls not marrying well.

My one disappointment from this production was oddly with Jane Austen’s most comical character of all – Mr Collins was nowhere near creepy enough, appearing simply dull rather than the finger-curling awful I expected. Though his simpering during Lady In Red was exactly as I’d have wished!

Among the fun, the pithy one liners and the stonking pop songs, there’s some sharp commentary on the plight of the servant class in Georgian England. Pride and Prejudice* (*sort of) is smart, roar-out-loud funny and an absolutely brilliant evening.

• Pride and Prejudice* (*sort of) is on at Lighthouse Poole until Saturday 23rd Novmber. Evenings performances at 19:45, matinees (Thurs and Sat) at 14:30.