What Stilton should you stock for your festivities – or would another blue cheese suit you better? Simon Vernon explains what’s on offer.
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Christmas is traditionally a time when we indulge in fine food. If we are lucky enough to be involved in a festive gathering it is a good excuse to stock some extra cheese to see us through the holiday period.
There are some cheeses which everyone associates with Christmas, but one must be named the King of English cheeses – Stilton. This world-famous delicacy is named after the village of Stilton, Cambridgeshire, where it was sold at the Bell Inn situated on the Great North Road. Stilton quickly developed a huge following with people stopping off to sample it while travelling between London and the north. The cheese was actually made in Leicestershire, but sold exclusively at The Bell.
Stilton is the only English cheese named and protected in law as ‘a blue or white cheese made from full-cream cow’s milk with no applied pressure (in the making or forming), that could be pierced, but not inoculated, that forms its own crust or coat and that is made in a cylindrical form, the milk coming from English dairy herds in the district of Melton Mowbray and surrounding areas falling within the counties of Leicestershire, Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire.’
It is now governed by the Stilton-makers association, formed in 1948. After an unfortunate food poisoning incident in the 1980s, when Stilton was wrongly blamed, the rules of production were changed to only allow pasteurised milk to be used.
Which Stilton is for you?
If you want the true blue stilton flavour I would advise you to go for a large piece rather than the Stilton in jars. The potted Stilton is usually white Stilton, crumbled up and inserted into a jar with some blue mould added and a wax seal placed over it.
Once the jar is opened the wax seal should be removed and the cheese left for the blue veining to develop. The contents of the jar usually just turn a shade of blue…
If you are planning a large gathering, then my advice is to go for an entire baby Stilton. They weigh about 2.5Kg (compared to a full-sized Stilton of about 7.5Kg). They are made in exactly the same way as the traditional size but using a smaller mould.
The ‘real’ Stilton?
If you want to taste a cheese which tastes as Stilton used to be when made with unpasteurised milk, then I suggest you search out Stichelton. It’s made in Nottinghamshire in the same way, but it cannot be called Stilton as it uses unpasteurised milk.
The local blue
You may prefer to have a local blue cheese – in which case the superb Dorset Blue Vinny, made at Woodbridge Farm just outside Sturminster Newton, is a great alternative (and is also named and protected in law). Rather than using the full milk as with Stilton, the cream is skimmed off before production which means Blue Vinny is lower in fat and therefore could definitely be argued to be a healthier option!
This month we’ve been chatting to Matt and Emily who run the Fleur de Lys in the village of Cranborne, a welcoming 17th century inn where you can eat, drink and stay in one of their nine bedrooms.
The Fleur de Lys in Cranborne
How did you end up at
The Fleur de Lys?
My wife and I moved to France 16 years ago with two young children (a total which has now grown to four children!). We built several houses as I was (am?) a builder, and we now rent them out for holiday lets.
We then set up Biginfrance.com where we do celebrity chef cookery courses, yoga retreats and other activity holidays – all alongside catering for very large numbers, cooking in large Chateaux throughout France. With this being very seasonal we found ourselves wanting a new project in the UK to continue our passion for food (Matt having been in and out of the catering industry for 25 years). That’s when we found and fell in love with the Fleur de Lys inn in Cranborne. Taking over in September 2019 we had an amazing start and were very well received… but were bought to an abrupt halt due to Covid.
Tell us about your
team?
We have an amazing team of locals and have a real sense of family at the inn. Charlie Farwell is head chef – he was previously in London and did five years at the Ritz hotel, so you can imagine the level of detail that goes into the food. It’s obviously all homemade; amazing sauces and a beautiful Lobster bisque that is outstanding and a signature dish. Front of house we have Tony as GM and he’s supported by a great local team including Sue, Emma, Vonnie and everyone else who plays their part. They all welcome guests with warmth and we’re proud of our friendly relaxed family-style atmosphere.
What’s your favouritelocal place to visit onan afternoon off?
We are situated in a beautiful village with fantastic walks, along with lots of local producers and local businesses. There’s the amazing la Fosse restaurant for fine dining and the very quirky six penny brewery for artisan ales!
What are you mostproud of so far?
We’re most proud of how the team has pulled together. But in terms of physical achievements it has to be the outdoor fire kitchen we built during lockdown. We have six different fires we cook on; in the summer we cook solely out there and it has a real Mediterranean feel. It’s relaxed dining where you can watch the chefs cook on fire, which is great theatre and gives the food an amazing charred taste that reflects our menu.
Emily & Matt, owners of the Fleur de Lys in Cranborne
What part of thebuilding is yourabsolute favourite?
The inn dates back to the 17th century and is mentioned in Tess of the d’Urbervilles. The entire building is steeped in history, and we love every one of the nine ensuite bedrooms that are just so quaint. But it’s probably the beautiful inglenook fireplace – where better to sit, with the fire going, a nice local ale and some beautiful non-pretentious food.
Which meal is your most popular? What do people drive from afar to come specifically toyou for?
We are renowned for our fire cooking and amazing steaks and beef cuts that we get from a company called From Salt to Smoke that are in the village. This was set up by Matt and another business partner, and is now supplying some of the best hotels and restaurants on the south coast. We also use Cove on the Quay in Poole for all our fish and we buy whatever they catch on their Day boats. So you can expect whole wood-fired Dorset lobsters in Thermidor sauce. Whole fish cooked on the fire and beautiful seafood such as mussels and clams, scallops and oysters – oyster we sometimes cook on the coals with a sumac butter that are just sublime.
Emily and Matt are proud of the warm, welcoming and relaxed atmosphere in the inn.
Tell us about anyof your really localsuppliers?
Cranborne is so unique and has some fantastic suppliers. Some of our favourites are; The Book and Bucket Cheese Company. Award-winning local cheese. As said before, From Salt to Smoke butchers. They provide fantastic local Himalayan dry aged beef, local game, pannage pork and lambs. Also their new charcuterie range is phenomenal. Orchard Bay Bakery for the best sourdough and bread around. Cranborne watercress. Lovely salads produced right here in the village.
The Fleur de Lys is renowned for its fire cooking, having built an outdoor fire kitchen during lockdown with six different fires
What’s next?
We have some amazing mini break deals. So if you want to get away to a beautiful inn in a stunning location on the edge of the New Forest then this is the place for you. We are also just about to take on two big inns in Devon. Watch this space!!
The Fleur de Lys is open 9am until close every day. To book a table or room call 01725 551 249 or click here: https://thefleurdelysinn.co.uk/
Over the last couple of years we have probably all had a little more time at home than we expected, and many people have experimented in the kitchen, discovering a love of cooking they simply didn’t have time for previously. But there is something about Christmas that inspires more home-making than any other time of the year. Whether that’s decorating a tree, making a Christmas card or baking a cake, many of us are tempted to roll up our sleeves and get a little creative.
If you like to explore the kitchen at Christmas, then I have put together some festive recipes to get your home smelling lovely and Christmassy – these are perfect treats for your Christmas houseguests, and also make wonderful, personal, gifts for loved ones.
Heather x
PS – don’t forget my own foolproof Christmas Cake recipe featured in last December’s issue here – it reliably gives that delicious deep Christmassy flavour whether you make it two months or two days before Christmas. You can also find all of last year’s Christmas recipes here (including my infamous mincemeat, the easiest sausage rolls to impress, and the super- Christmassy star-topped jammy biscuits)
Festive Cookie Dough Puds
If you are looking to make some sweet treats for your loved ones this year, then these cookie dough balls are for you. Simple to make, no fancy equipment needed, not even any baking – and they’re deliciously sweet. When I was a caterer, these were one of my Signature sweet ‘bakes’ and I loved adding a little fondant holly sprig at Christmas time.
image Heather Brown
Ingredients
90g butter
75g caster sugar
75g soft brown sugar
1tsp vanilla extract
100g plain flour
100g chocolate chips
200g dark chocolate
50g white chocolate
A little green and red fondant
Method
Mix together the butter, both sugars and vanilla extract really well, until the mixture is no longer grainy, usually about 2-3 minutes.
Carefully mix in the flour and the chocolate chips (the mixture should be fairly stiff once all combined).
Using your hands, roll the mixture into balls – just smaller than a ping pong ball size). Place them onto a lined tray or a plate and place in the fridge for about an hour to harden.
Melt the dark chocolate (either in the microwave or in a bowl over a saucepan of boiling water).
Using your hands, coat the dough balls in the melted dark chocolate. I found that
the easiest way is to get lots of the melted chocolate on both hands and then pick up the dough balls and simply roll. It’s definitely messier this way, but you can use gloves if you wish!
Leave the chocolate to set.
Melt the white chocolate and then drizzle it onto the top of the chocolate so that it looks like a Christmas pudding topping.
Then roll out the green fondant and using tiny cutters, or a sharp knife and a steady hand, cut into holly leaves. Attach these to the dough balls with a little water.
Next roll tiny balls from the red fondant and attach, also using a little water. I find that the pre-made little packets of coloured fondant (from most supermarkets) work well here as you don’t need much.
image Heather Brown
NB – This recipe doesn’t contain raw eggs so is fine to eat raw. Some have an issue eating uncooked flour – if so, simply heat the flour in the oven (loose on a tray) to 73o and then let it cool completely before using. I have never bothered though, and I have made (literally) thousands of them!
Traditional Gingerbread Biscuits
“The fiery little gingerbread biscuits are full of flavour and perfect with a mulled wine or cider (and they smell heavenly in the oven whenbaking.
They are perfect to make with children and can be a fun activity to decorate together. You can also add a hole at the top of each biscuit so that when cooked, you can tie a ribbon on and hang from the Christmas tree.”
image Heather Brown
Ingredients
100g salted butter
2 tbsp golden syrup
1 tbsp treacle
100g soft brown sugar
1⁄2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
2 tbsp ground ginger
1⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon
225g plain flour
50g icing sugar
image Heather Brown
Method
Grease and line 2 baking sheets with baking parchment.
Melt together gently in a saucepan the butter, golden syrup, treacle and sugar. Once melted, remove from the heat.
Sift together the flour, bicarbonate of soda and the spices
Gently add the flour mixture to the buttery mixture and mix well until you form a soft dough.
Wrap the dough in cling film and pop in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Pre-heat your oven to 160o fan/gas 4.
On a floured surface, gently roll out the dough. It will be quite soft, so make sure the rolling pin and the surface are well floured to avoid sticking/tearing.
Using cutters, cut your shapes – stars look beautiful, but any seasonal shape, or even simple hearts work well. Place the biscuits onto the baking tray.
Reform the dough and repeat as needed.
Bake the biscuits in the oven for 10-15 minutes (depending on the size of your shapes) until the centre of the biscuits feel slightly firm when pressed lightly with a finger tip.
Leave them on the tray to cool slightly before trying to move as they will be softer, straight from the oven.
I like to add a little water to the icing sugar in a little bowl and then drizzle the biscuits with icing sugar but you can of course be as creative as you like with the decorations.
White chocolate, cranberry and Oreo rocky roads
“This recipe is very forgiving – the ingredients can be switched without altering the finished bake. You can change the dried fruit for nuts (or just add some nuts in extra if you want both), add more marshmallows if you prefer the rocky road to be softer, even change the biscuits to your favourite type – try some fun party rings maybe!”
image Heather Brown
Ingredients
500g white chocolate
200g dried fruit (I use dried cranberries)
2 packets of Oreos
100g mini marshmallows.
Method
Simply line an 8′′ square baking tin with baking parchment.
Melt the white chocolate (either very gently in a bowl in the microwave or in a pan over a low stove heat).
Take off the heat and stir in the dried fruit and marshmallows.
Gently break up 1 packet of the biscuits into rough quarters and stir into the mixture.
Tip the mixture into the baking pan and spread evenly.
Break up the other packet of biscuits and sprinkle over the top of the pan. Gently push into the mixture.
Place the pan into the fridge to set for at least 1 hour.
I would like you to share an experience of mine which I hope none of you will ever experience.
Picture this: three years ago my eldest daughter, while we were on holiday in Wales, wanted to go on a kayak. We hired one for a few hours. It was a lovely, warm, calm August day. We had a lovely time. Returning from our trip, and about 100m from shore, we hit the confluence of the river estuary, a fresher wind and a turned incoming tide. I was at the stern, a wave caught us under the bow. We went over. Both ended up in the water. If I close my eyes I can still hear the panicked cry of ‘Daddy!!’ as we both bobbed to the surface. My daughter was then 10. I grabbed her. Still buffeted by rising waves going over our heads I got her to hold the kayak. I rescued the paddles and we swam to an inlet where, scratched by barnacles, soaked through and frankly frightened, we sorted ourselves out. Caught our breaths. Paddled like fury and returned to the little beach and safety.
For those in peril on the sea I thought of this as I read about the souls lost in the Channel this week. The words of the hymn ‘Eternal Father Strong To Save’ so recently sung at Remembrance Sunday echoed in my ears: ‘for those in peril on the sea’. Not a single one of us can ever pretend to understand or share the imperatives, dangers, hopes, fears, aspirations that drive people from their homeland to seek a better future across our continent. I had the tiniest glimpse of the gut tightening anxiety of a much loved daughter in trouble in a choppy sea. But, we were not in the middle of the world’s busiest shipping lane. It wasn’t November. We weren’t in an overcrowded, not fit for purpose vessel. We could see the shore.
A beacon of hope I am more than aware of the additional pressures that those making the crossing put on our social and other services. The current situation is not sustainable. We must work collaboratively with the French and other European Governments to have a shared response. I pray that we actually try to solve the issue rather than playing the blame game and victimising the ‘others’ to protect the ‘us’. Is it naïve to make the following comment? Is the fact that some of our fellow human beings are prepared to risk life and limb to come to the UK a source of pride? They don’t see the White Cliffs. They see a beacon of hope, a citadel of decency, a functioning democracy, a stable form of governance, a land of peace and of opportunity. A country of values and honour. I think there is something rather noble in that assessment as to how we are seen.
A Christmas Story We are approaching the Christmas Season and we focus upon the birth of Jesus. But the Christian story would have been a very short one had not two parents, for the safety of their child, made a flight into Egypt. Let our charity be more than a form of ritualistic, platitudinous words. Let it be more than that. Let it start with the simple truth: we talk of people not statistics. May those who lost their lives Rest in Peace.
It’s back! The Rotary Club of Sturminster Newton invite you to register, grab your Santa suit, your family and your friends and join in the well- loved charity fun run/jog/walk in Sturminster this December.
Santa Stride
For more than sixty years, the Rotary Club of Sturminster Newton members have been raising money and changing lives with their popular community events such as The Cheese Festival, The ‘Big Lunch’ and the annual ‘Santa Stride’ along the trailway.
In just the two years prior to the pandemic, the Sturminster Newton Club raised over £20,000, and 100% of all monies raised was donated directly to registered charities. The club selects both local and international causes, from local schools to eradicating Polio across the globe, disaster relief for Nepal and the local Air Ambulance.
Santa Stride
The Santa Stride
Perhaps an oddity for those living further afield, but for many Sturminster Newton residents, the sight of countless Father Christmas’ gathered together and walking the trailway signals the start of the festive season.
The ‘Santa Stride’ is an annual community fun run (or walk) which begins at the start of the Trailway in Sturminster Newton, and this year the event is on Sunday 12th December. Hundreds of happy entrants will run, jog or walk between two and seven miles down the Trailway towards Shillingstone and back – all dressed as Santa! It is open to any age and ability, individuals, families or groups; how fast and far you go is up to you. If you’re concerned about not owning a Santa suit then fear not – it is included in the entry fee (along with a choice of suits for tinies up to 8 years old – a mini Santa suit or a very cute Elf costume!).
The cost of entry, including Santa suit and festive refreshments, is just £5 for Adults and £2.50 for children, with under sixes free.
The Santas striding along the trailway are an interesting sight!
To register, please download a sponsorship form here and collect sponsorship before the event – this year the Rotary Club has slected the Somerset & Dorset Air Ambulance. Last time Santa Striders raised over £1,000!
Individuals, families and groups are all very welcome – and the most active participants who
wish to run the course set off 90 minutes before the slower walkers. Once registered, entrants will be able to collect their Santa suits before the event at the Santa Stride Pop Up Shops in The Exchange Atrium. Sturminster Newton Rotary is a fun, friendly
and welcoming club and always welcomes new members. If you would like to find out more please enquire here.
Sponsored by Ward Goodman – Your success is our business
Margaret Green Animal Rescue have launched their Shining LightAppeal for the rescue dogs in their care like Florence.
Image Margaret Green
Florence was found discarded on the side of the road by a concerned member of the public. She was taken to Margaret Green’s Lincoln Farm, where her condition shocked even the experienced Rescue Centre staff. Manager Helen said:
“I have worked here for over 19 years and I have never seen such an emaciated dog. She urgently needed our help – who knows what could have happened to her.”
Florence was quickly assessed by staff and began receiving veterinary care – with her weight a mere 10.4kg (her ideal weight being 20kg) her vital organs were shutting down, her eyes were sunken and she could hardly stand.
Florence weighed half what she should, her vital organs were shutting down, her eyes were sunken and she could hardly stand
Progress and setbacks
This kind of condition doesn’t happen overnight – Florence had obviously been suffering for a long time. First aid was warmth and comfort – cosy blankets to help her feel safe and warm, and regular food and drink; eight meals a day. Despite slow steady progress, there was more devastating news to come – Florence had suspected life-threatening kidney failure. Thankfully, after the initial worry, the vets felt her diagnosis could be managed with a special diet, and Florence continued to improve. The Margaret Green staff are all so proud of her courage and resilience, and absolutely thrilled that Florence has now found the loving home that she truly deserves. Her story was inspiring for all the staff – finding dogs like Florence a happy ending is the reason they all work so hard.
Florence is now the queen of the loving home that she truly deserves.
Help to defy the odds
Sadly this is not an isolated story – Margaret Green Animal Rescue see hundreds of dogs come into their centres each year for costly and time- consuming care. The charity are appealing for donations this Christmas through their Shining
Light Appeal to be able to save and care for dogs in need like Florence. With your help, they can help the rescue dogs to defy all odds. If you think you could be a shining light this Christmas, make a donation via the Donate page on Margaret Green Animal Rescue’s website and using the reference ‘Light’ in the comments box. Every donation will makes a difference, ensuring the charity are ready whenever a dog needs them.
Sponsored by Ward Goodman – Your success is our business
The Battens Charitable Trust has helped hundreds of Dorset based charities for more than 35 years, stepping up donations during the recent pandemic when it was needed most, as Gail Livingstone reports.
The first Countrymen UK Group was formed here in Dorset at Rylands Farm, just outside Sherborne
Getting together with loved ones is what Christmas is all about – yet for many people it can be a very lonely experience, especially in rural communities. At Ryland’s farm outside Sherborne the Dorset Club of Countrymen UK gives valuable support to men who find themselves isolated because of deteriorating physical or mental health or changing social circumstances. It is just one of many local charities that the Battens Charitable Trust (BCT) has donated to since its inception in 1985.
From donations to a Trust Battens Solicitors, a 300 year old firm has three offices based in Dorset at Sherborne, Dorchester and Wareham. The company had a history of supporting local communities in Dorset and Somerset through charitable giving, the firm’s partners donating to local good causes from their own income until the trust was eventually established in the mid- eighties. Since then it is estimated that the BCT has donated more than half a million pounds to local charities through personal bequests and legacies from Batten’s clients as well as the general public. Consultant Solicitor Ray Edwards who helped found the BCT believes the trust has played its part in helping countless smaller charities across Dorset; “It is a privilege to be able to support local communities in this way, especially smaller charities that are often overlooked. We have donated to schools, sports clubs, arts foundations as well as the Dorset Wildlife Trust to name but a few.” During the pandemic the BCT donated £25,000 to local foodbanks and volunteer NHS organisations and hospitals in the South West who were facing unprecedented demand for their services.
Playing an essential part The pandemic also made it difficult for many charities to fundraise so support from the BCT was vital at this crucial time as the Director of the Dorset Club of UK Countrymen Julie Plumley explains; “The Coronavirus pandemic was a particularity challenging time for a charity like ours, which supports older men in rural Dorset. Most are extremely vulnerable to the virus, so we had to find new ways to help them and their carers during the lockdowns. This included making changes to our venue to make it safe, offering support in people’s homes and delivering food parcels where they were needed. The role that local funders like the Battens Charitable Trust play in this is absolutely essential. Without their support we simply wouldn’t be able to do what we do.”
If you would like to make a donation to the Battens Charitable Trust then please contact Louisa Dustan by emailing [email protected] or by visiting the firm’s website www.battens.co.uk The Dorset Club of UK Countrymen can be contacted by visiting www.countrymenuk.org.uk
A November plot – Barry Cuff shares the result of careful planning with a continuing harvest from his winter allotment.
Not just for summer, the butterflies have been active on thr Sturminster Newton allotment’s ivy throughout November’s warmer days. Image: Barry Cuff
After the deluge on the last day of October, the first three weeks of November were quite dry allowing us to work on the plot. In fact the many sunny warm days meant the flowers on the ivy in the hedge were alive with Hover Flies, Bees, Peacock and Red Admiral Butterflies. Some weeds also continued to flower including Gallant Soldier, Red Deadnettle and Fumitory.
A continuing harvest
An allotment can be very productive as long as the soil is fed, and a little planning is used in the crops sown. Here at the end of November, we are currently still collecting the following fresh produce:
Early Nantes Carrots – dug as required
Musselburgh Leeks – dug as required
Blue/Red Moon Autumn Radish – pulled for salads
Various Oriental Leaves – cut for salads
Monarch Celeriac – one plant lifted every other week
Greensleeves Celery – dug as required and now covered with fleece to protect from frost
Palace Parsnip – two or three roots per week
Brendan Brussels Sprouts – picked once a week
• Cendis Cauliflower – the first curd weighed 2.5kg and lasted well over one week used in various meals
• Ironman Calabrese – all plants are producing good side shoots
• Witloof Chicory – lifted mid month, topped and tailed, and then stored in moist compost in the dark to produce tasty chicons over the winter months
• Santonio and Crokini Tomatoes – five plants of these two varieties were harvested of green fruits which are now in the greenhouse to ripen.
In additon to the fresh harvest, in store we have potatoes, onions, garlic, winter and butternut squash. While in the freezer there’s sweetcorn, French beans, broad beans, runner beans and peas.
A load of manure
The site’s delivery of well rotted horse manure arrived on the 8th – over the next two days we wheeled away our own 35 wheelbarrow loads, some being spread straight away.
A seed hoard
Our seed order from Kings Seeds arrived on the same day as the manure. As our Allotment Association is a member of the South West Counties Allotment Association, we receive a very generous 50% discount on our order of 35 packets. Most of our seeds are obtained from Kings, with just a few varieties from Fothergills and Thompson & Morgan. This amounts to about 50 packets for sowing in 2022.
At moment we have a small number of people on the Sturminster Newton Allotments waiting list. Now is the time to add your name.
Cyclamen, Wreath Making workshops, gifts for loved ones, and of course, the trees… yes, we’re embracing it all.
image courtesy of Thorngrove
There’s no denying it any longer. It’s time to embrace it. We are officially full of festive cheer and are ready for Christmas! It’s a funny time of year at Thorngrove; you might think with such cold weather, things slow down when it comes to plants…this couldn’t be further from the truth!
Not only are we putting out the seasonal plants such as poinsettias and princettias, and we have Christmas trees to make room for! Hyacinths planted a little while ago will be making themselves known, and we continue to make sure they’re as good as they can be. Not to mention the gifts and lifestyle shop gets a bit of a seasonal makeover as we bring in a whole range of unique and exciting products!
Winter baskets and troughs have also taken up a huge amount of the glasshouse team’s time as customers look to bring vibrancy and splendour to their homes and gardens this December. It’s always a sight to behold when many of them
The work you don’t see
The shop windows, and various benches around the garden centre may feel very beautiful and seasonal, but behind the scenes there’s an immense amount of cleaning after last season to make sure no pests make the plants their new homes, and we’re always looking ahead. Making orders for plugs of next years herbaceous and bedding plants, planning in for new products, making use of cuttings, and considering options for events to stay connected with the community.
image courtesy of Thorngrove
The most wonderful time of the year
There’s no question that it can be hard work, for everyone – from the plant nursery, glasshouses, café, shop, tutors, students, and everyone else behind the scenes at EmployMyAbility and Thorngrove – but the hard work can be less noticeable this time of year as everyone knows that a much deserved break and end of year celebration is just around the corner. It’s the most wonderful time of the year, and we’d love for you to make Thorngrove a stop on your rounds this December. Have a fantastic Christmas and New Year everyone, and as we previously mentioned, even if you’re not celebrating this time of year, we send our end of year well-wishes to you and look forward to seeing you in 2022!
