A recent case of animal neglect on a Dorset farm has highlighted red flags with the Red Tractor accreditation systems, says Andrew Livingston
(stock image NOT of the farm in question)
Once again, farming has been cast under a dark shadow – this time a lot closer to home. Last month, a farmer from Kingston Russell, near Dorchester, was charged with offences relating to animal cruelty. In April last year, Trading Standards visited the farm with a vet from the Animal and Plant Health Agency and found an appalling sight which has once again created negative press towards agriculture. Pens of calves had a mix of healthy, severely sick and even dead calves. The pens, feeding equipment and water troughs were all dirty and a badly injured and lame cow had been left with no visit from a vet for over three months. Out in the fields wasn’t much better according to the report. The visitors had to free a calf who had got caught in wire and had been left in a field and a large variety of animal bones and skulls were recovered from the land. The punishment for the mistreatment of all these animals? The farmer who ran the property was fined £52,000 for the neglect. In my personal opinion, they have got off lightly – I feel anyone found mistreating animals should be banned from keeping them for life and face prison time.
Red Tractor approval? I know for some farmers things can slowly build up until it is difficult to work out how to return to once-high welfare standards. But once you keep animals, it’s a commitment that you cannot break. Partners and family need to know that their needs come after your cows, corn or pigs. So how had it got to this? Until April last year, the farm in question was certified with Red Tractor status. However, Trading Standards had been visiting for six years to ensure that changes were being made to the welfare of the animals. Did Red Tractor know of the previous poor animal welfare? The accreditation company should surely have been aware that the farm and its animals were in a poor state – otherwise what is their point? The farm is now banned from Red Tractor accreditation for two years, another stick with which to beat the farmer. But I would bet my house on the fact that the organisation has offered no support to the farmer in question since his ban. Of course there is no excuse for animal abuse, but when standards slip on a farm it usually correlates with troubles in the farm manager’s mental and physical wellbeing. Despite my anger toward the farmer for what he did to those animals, I am still concerned for the individual – agriculture is a lonely business with a high rate of suicide. This case suggests that Red Tractor don’t appear to have systems in place to continuously care for accredited farmers or their animals. Instead, the Red Tractor accreditation seems to attempt to protect animals simply by increasing farm paperwork. I do believe that the individual in question should have been banned from keeping animals. But even if he had, it’s got to be up to accreditation companies like the Red Tractor to help farmers who have made mistakes to transition and learn – not just throw the book at them and then move on.
Dorset is known as a natural larder, from meat to dairy and cakes to veg. Caz Richards of Dorset Food & Drink suggests some seasonal favourites
Beef short ribs slow braised with ale and herbs and a three-root mash. Slow cooked on the bone, beef short ribs are a thrifty cut, producing succulent meat and a magnificent gravy. Serve with an earthy mash of carrot, swede and parsnip for serious flavour combinations. Image and text: Dorset Meat Company.
Autumn is something that famous poets, authors and I all agree on: “The first fire since the summer is lit, and is smoking into the room: The sun-rays thread it through, like woof-lines in a loom.” (tip hat to Thomas Hardy). Autumn is about switching up the salads, adding a warm dressing and swapping the crisp dry white wines and blonde beers for ruby reds and nutty ales, as we hunker down with all the comforting food and drink. It’s always a delight to see the season’s bounty studding market stalls and shops or turned into preserves, cider, and juices. And never mind the shops – who doesn’t love the thrill of passing a gate or front door where jewel-coloured preserves vie for space among a box of apples, pears, pumpkins, squash, onions, and earthy beetroot, waiting for coins to drop into the honesty box?
That time of year Eating what’s currently in season is a no-brainer – it makes sense for both our purses and our palates with the abundance of big flavours and rich colours bursting with vitamins and all the good stuff. If you like the hustle and bustle of a market, you can of course always support local producers by purchasing your seasonal fruit, veg, meat and fish there. But you can also pick up lots of local produce from smaller independent shops and some supermarkets. Dorset Food & Drink has got you covered for your autumnal bonfire-night bangers, drinks and sweet treats. Our seasonal meat picks: The Dorset Meat Company, Jurassic Coast Farm Shop and B.Curtis Family Butchers. Venison steaks, burgers and sausages make a great healthy and hearty option, so our wild card choice is from Taste of the Wild. Add a dash of relish or chutney to seasonal faves from this lovely lot: Deelicious Chilli Jam, From Dorset with Love and Weymouth 51. For your cheese course, how about some Buckshaw Milk Sheep or a tasty selection from The Book & Bucket Cheese Company? Dorset Artisan Macarons will bring a splash of colour and Chococo will satisfy anyone’s chocolate craving! Our Autumn must-try drinks: Curious Kombucha, Dorset Ginger, Dorset Star Cider and these cheeky little numbers from Cerne Abbas Brewery –Watercress Warrior, Mrs Vale’s Ale and Ginger Fox. Before you know it, it’ll be time to think about Christmas and planning your festive menus …
The staff, governors, parents and children of Durweston Primary School are delighted that they have been judged by OFSTED to be a ‘Good’ school.
Durweston Primary School pupils setting off to re-enact the Roman attack on Hod Hill
In fact, the inspector said she had never before inspected a school where there were no negative comments from parents. The children were emphatic in their opinion that there is no bullying in the school, and 100 per cent of parents would recommend the school to other parents. The inspector praised the extremely good behaviour of the children and the warm relationships between both pupils and staff and between pupils themselves. The ambitious curriculum was noted, as was the high expectations that the teaching staff have for all children including those with SEND. She saw that the school’s values underpin everything they do; one teacher said ‘these are not just for school, but the values we want them to have for the rest of their lives.’ ‘We have always believed that Durweston is a great place to learn and a great place to work, and are delighted that OFSTED have recognized that our school is a very special place. I am enormously grateful to my fabulous staff, amazing children and their hugely supportive parents. What a super way to start the year!’ said headteacher Nicola Brooke.
Two recipes this month – and they’re both personal favourites which feature regularly as part of our family meals. Both are simple to whip up, taking 30 to 45 minutes from start to finish; perfect to pull together for a wonderful autumnal weekend evening meal with family or friends. The Toad in the Hole recipe is one I have used for years, but of course there are many versions of a Yorkshire pudding – some with water and milk, some with more eggs, some with much less flour. This recipe tends to produce Yorkshire puddings that have a crispy top and bottom, and a thick pudding-like middle. If you prefer a lighter Yorkshire, then just use 2 or 3oz less flour. The Sausage and Baked Bean Pie recipe is so simple, with just three ingredients, and I use ready-made pastry on purpose. I don’t think the hour or more spent making the puff pastry from scratch is worth the extra effort for something that takes just five delicious minutes to scoff down! – Heather
Sausage and Baked Bean Pie
All images: Heather Brown
Ingredients (serves 4)
8 sausages
Two 400g tins of baked beans
1 packet of ready rolled puff pastry
1 egg to egg wash or some milk.
Directions
Pre-heat the oven to gas 6/200º/180º fan.
Slice the skins of the sausages and remove the sausage meat.
Break the now-skinless sausages into small pieces, about 2cm long, and place them into an ovenproof dish.
Tip into the dish the baked beans and stir together.
Carefully unroll the pastry from its packet and place over the top, pressing down the edges.
Make a small hole in the centre.
Brush with beaten egg or milk.
Bake for 25 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden.
Toad in the Hole
The name may refer to the way toads wait for their prey in their burrows, making their heads visible in the earth, just like the sausages peep through the batter.
Ingredients (serves 4)
2tbsp oil
8 sausages
2 eggs
9oz plain flour (I use 00 grade flour)
about 200ml milk
Directions
Pour the oil into the base of your oven proof dish which needs to be large enough to fit the sausages with about an inch of space around each one. Place the dish with the oil into the oven so the oil gets hot.
Into a large bowl, measure out the flour and then add the two eggs. Pour in about a third of the milk and whisk together, making sure to get rid of all the lumps of flour.
Add the milk to the mix, a splosh at a time, whisking in between, until the mixture is the consistency of a good milkshake. It doesn’t need to be an exact science here though – a thicker mixture simply results in a stodgier Yorkshire pudding. Eggs aren’t all the same weight, so if 200ml of milk is still too thick, then add a bit more. If you end up with something that is more the consistency of water, just add a little flour to thicken it back up a bit.
Carefully take out the hot dish from the oven and place the sausages, equally spaced, into the dish.
Pour the Yorkshire batter over the sausages.
Place back into the oven and cook for 25-30 minutes until golden and crispy on the top.
This month Wayne recommends two books that would be perfect for Christmas for enquiring young minds
Unstoppable Us How Humans Took over the World (£20, age 7+) From the author of the multi-million bestselling Sapiens comes an enthralling new story of the human race, for younger readers. We humans aren’t strong like lions, we don’t swim as well as dolphins – and we definitely don’t have wings! So how did we end up ruling the world? The answer to that is one of the strangest tales you’ll ever hear. And it’s true. So get ready for the most amazing story there ever was – the incredible true tale of the Unstoppables. Find out how fire shrank our stomachs, how our ancestors spoke to animals, what football can tell us about being human, how we used our superpower for good and bad … With full-colour illustrations showing the relentless rise and rise of the human race, this is history like you’ve never experienced it before.
The Bedtime Book of Impossible Questions (£13, age 6+) Why are bubbles always round? Could I ever touch a rainbow? Why can’t I remember being a baby? How many stars are in the night sky? Why don’t animals wear clothes? Do plants have feelings? Have you ever not been able to concentrate because there are SO many questions buzzing round your brain? The Bedtime Book of Impossible Questions will offer answers to the most bamboozling questions and curious queries that you can think of. With engaging and accessible text and accompanied by exciting, inviting illustrations, The Bedtime Book of Impossible Questions is the perfect bedside companion to delve into when you are wondering if there really is an answer to everything.
Experienced P/T Housekeeper Required ASAP for large family home in Stour Provost. 5 hours per week over 3 days (min 1 day at weekend needed), more hours available during holiday season. Duties include all aspect of house work – tidying, bed making, cleaning, hovering, polishing, washing up and laundry etc … all to a high standard). £12-£15 per hour depending on experience. Please call or Whatsapp Kristy for more details on: 07492 503505
The Gryphon School in Sherborne were recently fortunate to host a visit from celebrity painter Adebanji Alade.
Adebanji is a presenter on BBC’s ‘The One Show’ as well as vice president of The Royal Institute of Oil Painters. He is a wonderful motivational speaker among a myriad of other accomplishments. Selected for their exceptionally high effort and their above-and-beyond attitudes to learning in art, 27 students from across all key stages spent an entire day with Adebanji. They experienced a professional portfolio viewing, watched an inspiring painting demonstration and workshop and they each received one-to-one guidance on creating a portrait of their own in oil paint and mixed media. The students gained valuable insights and learned new skills in traditional and contemporary portraiture techniques using oil and mixed-media. They all produced highly successful and advanced portraits.
Inspired responses The students were absolutely delighted with the experience: ‘It was a brilliant opportunity and I would recommend this workshop to anyone’ – AK ‘Truly a wonderful experience! I’m so happy that I was picked for it, I feel like I’ve learnt many useful techniques and that this workshop will help me to become a great artist! I hope that one day I’ll be just as successful and skilled as Adebanji Alade!’ – BS ‘ Adebanji’s workshop was really educational and inspired me to do my own oil painting’ – IW Adebanji commented on his day at The Gryphon School; ‘Thanks so much for hosting a wonderful workshop with your talented art students, I really enjoyed working with them.‘
Mr Malone, from The Gryphon School’s art department, said ‘We would like to say a huge thank you to both The Gryphon Foundation and to headteacher Nicki Edwards for their generous support in helping to make this wonderful opportunity happen. And of course well done to the exceptional-effort students who took part.’
In search of a quiet Greek retreat, artist Deborah Macmillan and radio presenter Natalie Wheen became accidental organic olive farmers. Edwina Baines reports
Extra virgin quality just-picked olives Image: Deborah Macmillan and Natalie Wheen
It was Homer who coined the term ‘liquid gold’ for olive oil – Ancient Greece was where the olive tree and fruit achieved the importance they still enjoy today. I interviewed Deborah Macmillan with a view to talking about her life as an artist – but on visiting the recently-acquired home in Hammoon that she shares with her friend Natalie Wheen, I was intrigued by a very different liquid gold story.
Natalie Wheen (left) and Deborah Macmillan at home Image: Edwina Baines)
Old friends Deborah was born in Queensland, Australia into an “affectionately argumentative” family who encouraged her artistic talent. ‘They left the walls of my bedroom bare so that I could draw on them, which all my friends thought was outrageously eccentric!’ After gaining a scholarship to the National Art School in Sydney she moved to London and in 1972 married dancer and choreographer Kenneth Macmillan. Director of the Royal Ballet, knighted in 1983 and arguably the finest choreographer of his generation, Sir Kenneth died in 1992. Deborah has exhibited her own works in London and Glyndebourne and also spends much of her time supervising revivals of her husband’s ballets in major theatres around the world. When we chatted, she was just back from Australia where the Queensland Ballet Company was staging Manon and was soon heading to Paris for his celebrated ballet, Mayerling.. Natalie Wheen was born in Shanghai, as were her father and grandfather, but in the turmoil of post-war revolutionary China they were evacuated in 1951 to Hong Kong, moving to England in 1957. Natalie, a talented student of violin and piano at the Royal College of Music, “hated practising.” After her music degree at London University, she joined the BBC, working first as a radio studio manager, then producer and finally as a presenter. For many years she was an instantly recognisable voice on BBC Radio 4’s Kaleidoscope arts programme and Radio 3’s Mainly for Pleasure, and latterly on Classic FM – chosen by Radio Times readers as possessor of one of the most attractive voices on radio.
Deborah Macmillan with her painting of Sir Kenneth Macmillan Image: Edwina Baines
A Greek escape In 1996 the two friends pooled resources to buy a ‘rundown shack and a little piece of land 50 metres from the sea’ on Greek island of Lesvos, somewhere to escape from the stresses of their professional lives. Later they added several adjoining parcels of land, on all of which olive trees grew. As they watched the olives grown and harvested (unlike other vegetable oils, olive oil is extracted from a fruit and not a seed), they were horrified by the “slippery practices” of many local farmers: fields poisoned by chemicals, trees wrecked by aggressive harvesting, newly harvested olives dumped and crushed into massive sacks and processed in filthy mills. So they started a new business, Avlaki Superb Organic Olive Oils, immediately taking control of every aspect of production. They converted the land to strict organic farming, with olives harvested by hand in December and blemished fruit removed, before the crop was taken, in shallow crates to avoid bruising, to the private, clean mill.
Euphorbia and rock roses on Lesvos Image: Deborah Macmillan and Natalie Wheen
From Lesvos to Wetherby The regulation of organic food production operates efficiently in Greece and their soil is tested regularly. Each olive farmer on Lesvos takes their harvest of the day to the mill for processing. The olives are not mixed with others. In many countries, small farmers add their olives into a general co-operative for milling. Once processed into airtight containers, the unfiltered oil begins its long journey by ferry to Athens and then overland to Wetherby in Yorkshire, where it is bottled by a family business of organically licensed farmers. From there, the Avlaki oil goes to a distribution depot in Aylesbury. When lockdown started in 2020 and all flights were cancelled, Deborah and Natalie stayed in Greece. They were thrilled to see how their now chemical-free land had allowed nature to come ‘roaring back’, as Deborah says. Now the fields bloom with orchids and wild flowers and teem with wildlife in the many bushes and trees that are deliberately left for cover. The friends are passionate about their olive oil, which has a long history of beneficial health properties. But there is a similarly long history of nefarious practice in the olive oil industry. It is known as one of the most adulterated of agricultural products. Deborah calls it ‘the oldest fraudulent food production in the world.’ Amusingly, even in Roman times the populace was warned to “beware the olive oil trader”! Deborah and Natalie, as relative newcomers to olive farming, say it is essential to read any olive oil bottle label carefully to check it is ‘extra virgin’. Anything else is of lesser quality, and could even have been extracted with chemicals – especially if it’s called “light’”. Slimmers beware!
Picked olives waiting to go to the mill Image: Deborah Macmillan and Natalie Wheen
Diversifying Olive oil is a key ingredient in many beauty products and Avlaki is now making top-quality organic olive oil soap, with no additives, preservatives or perfumes. Negotiations are continuing with a Dorset producer and there are plans to make a household soap with added eucalyptus. Both Natalie and Deborah are now happily ensconced in Dorset and are ‘madly planting’ in their garden, planning woodland groves in the fields. ‘It has been exciting to bring things back,’ says Natalie. This confuses friends from their previous lives in London: ‘They are clueless about country life and find it difficult to understand why we moved.’ says Deborah. ‘What has been lovely is to involve ourselves in countryside events.’
Avlaki organic olive oils
They enjoyed a summer of country fairs, particularly the ferret and terrier racing at the Gillingham & Shaftesbury Show. They are also working hard with local farmers and the Countryside Regeneration (formerly Restoration) Trust at Bere Marsh Farm in Shillingstone to restore the water meadows skirting the Stour. So, the next time you carelessly toss a bottle of olive oil into the supermarket trolley, make sure you read the label and remember that not everything named “virgin” is immaculately conceived! As Avlaki proclaims ‘We keep the olive in the olive oil!’. OliveOilAvlaki.com
This month’s news from the unofficial capital of the Blackmore Vale …
Pauline Batstone rounds up a busy month in Sturminster Newton
1855 The new ‘unique shop full of creativity in the heart of the Blackmore Vale’, 1855, will be opening its doors to the public on Sunday 20th November from 10am to 4pm. Yes, Sunday! It will then be open six days a week, with appointments only on a Wednesday. Come and buy from almost thirty local artisans, producers and traders, with products ranging from wines and ciders to work by artists and photographers, a bespoke tailor, a blacksmith (sorry, no horses allowed), authors, beauty products, cards, clothes, jewellery, silk goods, bespoke furniture and more.
The John Romans Building The former Lloyds Bank is now officially The John Romans Building, and is in the process of being donated by John (thank you) to SturAction to be used for the benefit of the area in perpetuity – specifically it is to be used to generate funds for local projects and to promote employment and training. On the ground and first floors donated items will be processed and sold (through The Emporium) to raise funds for SturAction’s projects. The large rooms and the office on the first floor are intended to be used to promote those objectives. The top floor is to be turned into office space to support the work of the Incubator Project, helping would-be entrepreneurs.
The Emporium In the Collectables Corner of the Emporium we recently received a donation of some lovely gold cuff links and evening shirt studs. Thanks to Trina at Horrocks & Webb in Blandford Forum for once again giving us their expert advice and valuations. Do come and browse the wide range of collectable items – all at knock-down prices, naturally! Also in The Emporium is the Dapper Chaps Gentleman’s Boutique, complementing our brilliant ladies and children’s boutique in Market Cross. So for those glamorous Christmas events – including The London Festival Opera at The Exchange on 9th and 10th December – treat yourself to something stunning. You may also need some ‘new to you’ furniture for your Christmas entertaining – if so, take a look at the catalogue in The Emporium and check out what is on offer in the furniture showroom in the former Barclays Bank. Some pieces are very much ready to rehome, and there are others which lend themselves to an upcycling project.
Make Stur Sparkle 2022 This year’s seasonal events will be launched on 25th November with an ice rink arriving in Church Street Car Park (opposite Beads with a Twist) for Friday 25th and Saturday 26th! There will be late night shopping on the 25th and 26th. Saturday 26th is Christmas Shopping day; there will be a Christmas Fayre in The Exchange, the Anonymous Travelling Market will be in the town, the Bulgarian Dancers will be dancing, there will be music throughout the day and don’t miss Father Christmas! The Lantern Parade will be at 6.15pm, leading to the lighting of the Christmas tree at 6.30pm. Join in the hunt for the sparkling stars in Stur’s shop windows from 26th November through to the New Year. Christmas Angels will once again be hiding around the town from 1st December. The Car and Bike Enthusiasts will be back on the morning of Saturday 3rd December Santas will be striding along the Trailway to raise funds for the Air Ambulance on Sunday 11th December. For further information see the Christmas page on sturminster-newton.org.uk or Facebook
