Tucked away in the tiny hamlet of Lower Chicksgrove (10 miles north east of Shaftesbury, a mile off the A30), The Compasses Inn is a gentle rebuff to the homogenised modern pub scene. With no passing traffic (unless you count the occasional sheep), this genuinely hidden gem is well worth going out of your way for. In fact, even if you do go looking for it, you may well drive straight past if you’re not careful.
Stepping into The Compasses feels like a brush with time travel – I suspect a customer from 1863 wouldn’t feel too out of place if they managed a timeslip into 2025. The dimly lit interior, ancient beams and well-worn flagstone floors exude a sense of continuity that has likely remained unchanged for centuries. But it’s no pastiche of Ye Old Inne: whether you’re enjoying a candlelit dinner or tucking into breakfast as sunlight filters through leaded windows, the ambience is just comfortingly constant – creaking, warm and steeped in quiet history.
Food that understands the assignment
As you might expect from the son of restaurant critic royalty Fay Maschler, owner Ben oversees a menu that’s a quiet masterclass in understated excellence: classic dishes with just the right amount of flair. We began with a more-than-generous portion of pâté, velvety smooth and light as air, accompanied by a very good red onion marmalade. And yes, the pate portion was enormous – but when it’s this good, that’s hardly a complaint.
The grilled goat’s cheese was equally generous, toasty warm with a creamy centre, accompanied by a well-balanced, texture-filled salad. A fruity dressing on the leaves (perhaps from that blood orange) might have taken it to the next level, but it was already delicious.
As it was Sunday, roasts were a must – served from noon through to 8pm. The pork was a highlight: tender, flavourful and crowned with perfect crackling. The beef – very rare, deeply savoury and utterly tender – ran it close. Both came with a generous heap of vegetables and a Yorkshire pudding so large it veered into stunt-baking territory. Sadly, it leaned dry: a smaller version which was fluffy and soft would have served us better. The horseradish sauce deserves a special mention – properly hot, but with so much depth and flavour. Courtenay declared it the best he’s ever eaten.
Dessert was a triumph and the absolute star of the night: a sticky date, apricot and walnut sponge that arrived warm and spiced. We’d braced for indulgent heaviness but were met with a surprisingly light, fragrant delight – drenched in sauce, paired with a proper dollop of cream. We’re still talking about it.
Eat, then sleep
If you’re making a night of it (and we thoroughly recommend you do), the rooms are just steps away. Above the pub are four bedrooms – three doubles and a larger family room. We stayed in the self-contained Plum Cottage which adjoins the main building, just outside the front door. It has a spacious, open-plan living area with woodburner and TV (no live channels, but excellent WiFi and every streaming platform you might want), a fully equipped kitchen, and up the stairs to two cosy singles, a spacious double and a smart bathroom. The contrast with the ancient pub couldn’t be starker – bright, minimalist and stylish, with the gentle Danish touch of Ben’s wife evident in the clean lines and calm tones.
Inside Plum Cottage. Images: Courtenay Hitchcock, The BV
It was peacefully quiet until about 2am, when a noisy rook drama kicked off in the trees nearby – nothing too disruptive, just a reminder that you’re deep in the countryside. A peek into the rooms above the pub revealed the same blend of character and comfort, with light, fresh decor that lets the bones of the building speak.
Worth the detour
In a world of copy-paste refurbishments, The Compasses Inn stands firm – a pub with soul, run with care, and the rare ability to make you instantly feel at home. It may be off the beaten path, but that only adds to its charm. Great food, thoughtful accommodation, and a proper night’s sleep – what more could you want?
The Compasses Inn
Lower Chicksgrove
Tisbury, Salisbury
Wiltshire SP3 6NB
T: 01722 714318
